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GPS computer or smart phone

Hi,

I'm about to venture into the GPS computer market. This will include cadence and heart-rate monitors. However, I'm also about to upgrade the old phone, so this could be an opportunity to get seomething suitable for the bike-related-stuff and save on having to buy a dedicated device.

Any comments or suggestions? Is this a good idea? Are the proper bike computers/gps much better than using a smart phone? What sort of interfaces would be best with a phone and do you have any recommendations?

Many thanks
Coxy

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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37 comments

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Neil753 replied to S13SFC | 10 years ago
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S13SFC wrote:
wellcoordinated wrote:
KiwiMike wrote:

To be clear: an iPhone will last over 12hrs on a ride, if you turn off WiFi and mobile data. Ditto mobile navigation like Viewranger, if you set the screen to be off and only wake it for turns.

Really?

I use ViewRanger on an iPhone with everything switched off and all apps closed and never got more than 5 hours out of it. My impression is this is par for the course for an iPhone. 12 Hours is just incredible. Then again everything has to be switched off so it would be hopeless for navigation on a century ride..

Rubbish. I do it virtually every weekend. Simply flick wifi, data/3G off and use Viewranger as & when and 12hrs is easy.

If you want your iphone to last as long as possible, and you don't have the latest iphone with the longer lasting battery, use Viewranger to plan your route, save the resulting gpx file, email it to yourself, then open the email in Bikehub. When you're on your ride, turn all data completely off, turn the Bikehub map off as well, and just follow the breadcrumb. Because the breadcrumb is stored in the phone, you don't have to wait for the map to constantly render, so there is no delay to slow you down at junctions and you don't have to keep turning the screen on and off. It always works, even if you're in an area with no signal.

If you want to extend the life of your iphone battery further then just get a charging unit (the type that takes two AA or AAA batteries) off Ebay for a couple of quid. Carry half a dozen AAs and you've suddenly got a system that will last over 24 hours, or indefinitely if you buy AAs on route. I find that a set of fresh AAs will raise my 3 year old iphone's battery life from 10% to 40%. I was out on a 24 hour ride last year and the set-up worked fine for me, without having to ever worry about running out of juice.

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langfordxc | 10 years ago
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Phones
Relatively cheap and great quality high res mapping at reasonable prices - it's possible to download 1:25K and 1:50K mapping. Streaming maps is unreliable away from cities and drains batteries fast. Phones are vulnerable if bar mounted (I smashed an iPhone after it's case flipped open). Ok for occasional use but limited for longer rides.

GPS units
More expensive up front but keep going for much longer - I use a Garmin GPS 62s which is a hand held unit that works fine cycling and has HRM & cadence integration. It is much larger than their cycling specific units but is water proof and can be used for walking, kayaking etc. Another benefit is the batteries last ages and can be changed in the middle of a ride. Mapping generally isn't as high res as phones and scrolling around to browse map tiles can be sluggish compared to phones. I'd avoid touch screen systems which are a pain in the cold when wearing gloves. Overall, probably the best choice for a cyclist because the latest units with on-screen mapping are excellent and are great for live navigation.

Watches
Suunto and Garmin both have some great products with the most sophisticated HRM software. Look for higher end watches that support HRV (Heart Rate Variation) which gives a 'Training Effect' for rides. It essentially processes the HR data and lets you know how hard your training ride has been. The latest watches include full GPS without the need for a separate pod. Mapping is generally very basic on screen for navigating with, but the watches will download your routes in the same way as a bar mounted GPS, so are fine for recording rides.

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Bigchrismm | 10 years ago
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I personally view my phone as an incase last resort sort of tool, so i tend to charge it up before i go then if i need it i have incase i majorly break down.

I say this because of the smart phone tracker apps strava etc tend to be a drain on you battery life, i.e. Ive got friends who just use their phones and its run out mid ride because of the battery usage. Its missed out the last of their rides and a few strava segments if your that way inclined.

What i did recently was purchase a garmin 800 performance pack so h/r and cadence from amazon for around the 270 mark, then its 30 for the maps from garmin, but you don't need to purchase the maps as all garmin a come with a basemap so can track you where ever you go.

Hope this helps

Chris

Avatar
Bigchrismm | 10 years ago
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I personally view my phone as an incase last resort sort of tool, so i tend to charge it up before i go then if i need it i have incase i majorly break down.

I say this because of the smart phone tracker apps strava etc tend to be a drain on you battery life, i.e. Ive got friends who just use their phones and its run out mid ride because of the battery usage. Its missed out the last of their rides and a few strava segments if your that way inclined.

What i did recently was purchase a garmin 800 performance pack so h/r and cadence from amazon for around the 270 mark, then its 30 for the maps from garmin, but you don't need to purchase the maps as all garmin a come with a basemap so can track you where ever you go.

Hope this helps

Chris

Avatar
Bigchrismm | 10 years ago
0 likes

I personally view my phone as an incase last resort sort of tool, so i tend to charge it up before i go then if i need it i have incase i majorly break down.

I say this because of the smart phone tracker apps strava etc tend to be a drain on you battery life, i.e. Ive got friends who just use their phones and its run out mid ride because of the battery usage. Its missed out the last of their rides and a few strava segments if your that way inclined.

What i did recently was purchase a garmin 800 performance pack so h/r and cadence from amazon for around the 270 mark, then its 30 for the maps from garmin, but you don't need to purchase the maps as all garmin a come with a basemap so can track you where ever you go.

Hope this helps

Chris

Avatar
KiwiMike | 10 years ago
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http://road.cc/content/forum/108899-smartphones-and-long-rides-strategy

There's a lot of info and suggestions here.

You could spend £500+ on a Garmin and the gubbins, or maybe £150 on HRM/Cadence sensor connected to a new iPhone or some Android phones - check they have either ANT+ or Bluetooth 4 / Bluetooth LE.

That way you can then use online mapping tools like Viewranger et al to plot and navigate routes. Mapping for Garmins is in excess of £100 for UK OS, or free on Viewranger using OpenStreetmap/Cyclemap, for the whole world.

No, there's no clear answer. It depends on depth of pocket, basically. Technically and usability-wise I don't see one being better than the other.

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davecochrane replied to KiwiMike | 10 years ago
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You've got tons of options. Bluetooth LE is indeed rising in popularity, but the vast majority of devices out there (Polar excepted) use ANT+ which Samsung have just announced they're going to add to all their phones (past and present as far back as Galaxy S3) which gives you even more choice if you're upgrading your phone. If you're an Android bod the S5 is released April 11th and is waterproof too....rather handy on the bike to protect from sweat and so on. Take a look at the Edge 510 or 500 (the last version) too. Excellent value. If you want mapping, an Edge 800 or 810 (the later ones have wireless) then you can get free turn by turn mapping as mentioned above. It works perfectly.  4

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