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8 comments
OEM Fulcrums, the ones supplied with a lot of bikes, are very iffy. They're not produced to the same standards as those you buy separately, and will have a bastard mix of totally different components, including a freehub which isn't available as a replacement.
That's my experience of the torrid 5.5s, anyway. Less than three months' use before the hub went and the rims were well-worn.
Whereas, I've hammered a pair of 7s and they're still going strong.
I had a set of fulcrum racing 77s, and the freehub stopped working after about 3000 miles. it then took over 3 months for the warranty replacement because the UK distributor left them in the corner of their warehouse and forgot about them. I don't plan on buying any fulcrum wheels any time soon!
Cheers Mike.
I haven't taken apart the wheels yet until I hear from wiggle but experience from other cheap wheels was the 10mm allen key to remove them didn't seem to work. and quick clean never made it clear what size hex wrench was need i.e. the inside was smooth.
I did look on wiggle and they have freehubs for all the other fulcrum models but not the sport (which isn't even mentioned on the website).
Oh well waiting for my hunt wheels longest I have been with out cycling since winter.
R
All,
Thanks for the comments.
I am in contact with wiggle for a refund under warranty as I have ordered a set of Hunt Wheels that were the same price as the Novatechs are completely servicable and supporting a new brand.
I think my freehub specnets about 300m or so on cobbles everyday and I think it has slowly shaken stuff loose and then one big jolt has messed up the prawls.
i haven't tried servicing the hub but if wiggle won't refund me then I may attempt to take it apart for practice but given the amount of brown gunk coming out ot if suspect corrison has set in too. My wife's wheel (unbranded) Suffered a similar failure and I couldn't work out how to take it apart based on the park tools guide. Are cheap wheels hard to take apart?
R
It's not necessarily the price that dictates how difficult they are to service, but as a general rule the cheaper end of the market is not so user-friendly. My favourites are genuine Shimano or Campag'. With their cup-and-cone bearings the hubs are a doddle to maintain and can be made to last the life of the bike.
And I've never found a freehub that couldn't be serviced. Look at some YouTube videos for advice, some of them are really helpful. Many people are worried about opening them up but they are simple; it's basic, thirty-year-old technology.
Even if you can't strip down a particular freehub, and some are made like that, I've always found that drilling a small hole in the thing will allow it to be flushed out and then re-lubed with oil. It takes little time and gives you another year's life, if you're lucky.
I've not had a lot of joy commuting with Fulcrum's, a set of racing quattros and a pair of racing sevens both developed freehub issues in less than a year. Granted, a lot of miles, but some Novatecs I had went on forever, like the other poster was alluding to.
As Kev says, your wheels are almost certainly under warranty, so your first complaint should be to the seller. Don't interfere with the freehub until they've had a look otherwise they may say you've damaged it yourself. With a little luck they will sort you out in a short time; even an internet shop should let you return it or perhaps pay the bill when you take it to your LBS.
As an aside, Fulcrum wheels are generally highly regarded. The company is owned by Campag' and they guard their reputation jealously. I've had them in the past and never had a moment's trouble; the freehub is incredibly easy to remove and service but that shouldn't be your aim at this point.
And finally, I agree wholeheartedly with your local mechanic. Wax is the way forward, every time.
First i would be contacting the shop or disto they came from for a warranty claim, they should have atleast a 1 year warranty on them
If that fails i would remove the free hub and check the free hub pawls and the hubs engagment ring
if all is ok it could be just that the jolt has knocked something out of line (pawl retention spring most likely)
Give it all a good clean and a light grease and reassemble to see if the pawls then engage
If you decide to go for new wheels then i can recomend a pair of Novatech cxd disc brake wheels
Weighing in at 1450 grams, tubless ready all for £350, ive had a set for over a year now and i can honestly say they are as good if not better than the 1k+ Reynolds and Fsa carbon wheels ive had over the years
Being Novatec means spares are easy to find, the hubs spin smooth, future proof with various end caps and axles to convert from qr to 12mm thru axle etc...
Plus Novtec make hubs for many other brands so you know they are good quality
https://totalfitnessbath.co.uk/novatec-cxd-wheels/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw_eu8BRD...