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20 comments
Just to say that I posted a similar thread about this (same bike model) a few weeks back. Like the others I decided that the poorly toleranced Boardman frame just wasn't up to press-fit, and so looked for an alternative.
Like some others, I opted to get:
I also 'faced' the bottom bracket by hand with the cup press and some wet-n-dry. Basically just taking all the layers of paint off that Boardman felt was necessary and wasn't helping with lining up the cups.
I've been running it for nearly two months now. Commuting every day in all weathers over road and trail, plus two very muddy CX races. It still runs smooth as a babys behind and not even a hint of creak. Has far less resistance than the original PF30 bearings too (which were always 'squashed' in and didn't rotate on the non-drive side properly).
I've since started running it with a single front ring (race face narrow-wide 40, goodbye Microshit derailluer) and a single speed adaptor kit on the back (18) and it's now a far more enjoyable bike to ride/race. I'm close to thinking I'll make the single speed sprocket thing more permanent allowing me to bin off the rear derailluer......
... possibly followed by the cross tops .... and maybe replace the brifters ....
Bloody hell... Your luck with that bike...
tell me about it!
Cheers for that. Just killed one set of my wheels coming off on the ice. Lucky I had a spare had just luckily ordered a new rear mech now need a new mech hanger too.
Shimano Deore XT M756A - straight swap for the hub in the wheels that come with the bike.
Cheers for that, my problem is that I really do like my Boardman, I might just treat myself to the cube attain sl disc for long winter rides.
Then in slow time slowly rebuild the Boardman as a general purpose/commuter/adventure bike. I have a spare rear wheel to wear out yet!
Wow. That's quite a history!
A couple of things I have noted about Boardman's in general and the CX specifically:
The hubs on the stock wheels are cheap crap. I have learned to run them near to failure and then swap in Shimano XT hubs which fit the spokes perfectly. If you are or have access to a decent wheel builder, you'll have a pretty good wheel with the XT hub. I weigh 90kg and am usually loaded with another 8kg of stuff on my commute, so the hubs do take a hammering.
The Microshift front mechs are garbage. Having previously used a Boardman Hybrid for commuting I knew what was coming when I bought the CX and swapped it for an Ultegra one immediately.
The bb5 brakes will stop you brilliantly, but you could spend your entire life eliminating rub. After 2,000 miles I gave up and put Spyres on. They're fantastic.
The PF 30 we've discussed to death... There are several threads on it on this site alone. The solution is posted above though!
Cassette... The spec on the 2014 is a 32 t.... Mine was fitted with such and it's strange yours only has a 28. I use 32-12 Tiagra ones and just stock up in the sales. Got them for as little as a tenner. The 2014 CX comes with the medium cage rear mech, so there's nothing stopping you fitting a 32.
My CX has done about 10,000 miles of mostly commuting through Glasgow in all weathers. It's a great frameset and because I do all my own maintenance, I'm personally happy keeping it going with upgrades and repair. Our C2W window opens today and will close again without me even looking at options. (Although to be fair I'm just about to finish a Kaffenback build using the groupset from my old Boardman Hybrid so that itch has been scratched)
I totally understand your bias towards punting it, but you could just as easily buy a new groupset and have the wheels rebuilt and have a great commuter/all rounder.
which xt hub?
Think I'm just going to sell the damn thing, I don't want to spend anymore than needed. Thanks for the replies folks.
Luckily i I got a refund on the bb. Happy with the service from mantel.
I'm delighted with the outcome of the adapter and Shimano chainset I used to sort the problem. It's a great bike for fast commuting, but having tried lots of things this was absolutely it's last chance.
70 quid and half an hour's work and you'll be click free forever.
I use this bike to commute every day, so it was worth the investment. However, Iappreciate that if this isn't your primary transport even £70 might be too much to spend.
i appreciate that, but the Boardman CX and I have a long history. My first one had all sorts of problems, in the first few months I went through a couple of BBs and crank sets. And a free hub. After 6 months is was stolen from our "secure" bike locker. I bought another, in the next 7 months I went through 4 free hubs, several BBs front mech (upgraded now to Rival) and a front shifter I finally got the thing running really well and then a car turned accross the cycle lane I was in and I hit the car which killed the bike as the frame was bent. I bought another Boardman cx, (had lots of spare parts) all the same problems again the free hub was crocked straight away almost, I have been through a few, halfords apparently put an upgraded one on, it's on it's way out again, but out of warranty. If I were to keep it now it would be new wheels as an upgrade, new brakes trp spyre as the bb5s are ok but not great, plus the Bb/chainset I would also like an 11 speed groupset really as going up porlock hill on a 34/28 at 95kg is hard work a 34/32 would be a bit nicer when gradients really ramp up. I use this bike a lot so between the above issues and the new cycle2work scheme opening up at our place shortly I think it's time for a change.
Yes, it does, indeed, suck balls.
I found this out after buying an FSA PF30-BSA insert and trying to fit it without looking at the shell and engaging brain.
Let's just say I wasn't able to send it back for a refund.
If you still have problems try something like the Praxis Works conversion BB or Wheels Manufacturing BB
Not sure either of them will fit in this case, Paul.
The Praxis Works one definitely does not fit into PF30 shells with any internal lip/reduced bore.
The Boardman PF30 shell has a significantly narrower bore in the central section of the shell. It's 4 or 5 mm of a differential.
That aside, both of the options you mention are excellent solutions to PF30 creak, so long as the shell is a smooth, single bore.
Balls. That sucks.
Excellent. Enjoy!
@jollygoodvelo the Microshift front mech became an Ultegra one the day I collected the bike.
My previous C2W bike was a Boardman Hybrid, so I removed the weakest link in the groupset before it became a problem.
Tiagra chainset, Microshift front derailleur and Apex rear. Well, I suppose that's the advantage of interoperability...
I've got the same problem with my CX, might have to give it a go. I've changed pretty much everything else recently![4](https://cdn.road.cc/sites/all/modules/contrib/smiley/packs/smilies/4.gif)
Follow up post: did it. Hardest part was getting the old PF30 cups out of the frame and getting the BB adaptor in straight. Now smooth, silent, wonderful. Hurrah!
Having tried various replacement PF30 units and bearings with and without grease/liquid torque I finally gave up and did something very similar to cxr94di2, although it came from Planet X.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BBTPPF30/
Currently only 8 quid, so while getting the URL I've just bought a spare as it includes the outboard bearings!
I whacked in a Tiagra compact chainset and for £60 all in finally bade farewell to the PF30 nightmare on this frame set. Been running beautifully for 6 months now (100 miles of all weather commuting per week)
I moved over to sram cups which allow me to use threaded external shimano bearings. I did this to stop creaking
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/sram-pressfit-30-to-bsa-adapto...