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27 comments
Dottigirl, johnnystorm suggested it earlier in the thread, then I did a bit of looking and it seems perfect for when I get my new nokons. Motorbikers seem to swear by it. Would be good for resisting winter road filth. £20 to keep what would be getting on for £100 of cables tip top seems worth it.
I was going to cover every bit of the cables with wet lube, for the new ones, and in black. If I had everything slippery when originally fitting would have made it much more difficult than it was, but to replace with some knowledge wouldn't be too much of an effort. The silvers have rotted, but it did take a while. Didn't care for them as I should. Lesson learned.
http://www.cannondale.com/Europe/WarrantyInfo.aspx
this is your ticket to sort it, hopefully you registered it with Cannondale when you bought it.
Cannondale has a "get out of jail" clause: paint is not covered by the warranty. I argued the case with their manager over this and they agreed to take the bike in and have a look. however, it was only a ruse to placate me; they 'bounced' the bike back saying again that the paintwork is not covered even though frame corrosion is the cause of the paint issue.
This has been a great thread, apart from disappointment with Cannondale, and various Bad Boys which had been my n+1s long before I knew there was a term for it.
Very informative, and now I know there are products to resist the many effects of road filth, I shall be getting some acf50 when I get my new set of Nokons. If you don't know it exists you can't search for it on internet.
Is the Duralac similar to the coppery stuff in assembly compound? And if it is very different, in which situation should I use each?
ACF50? Not heard of that before. Who suggested it to you?
I use copper seize/grease on nearly every thread I touch, but I was wondering the other day what to put on the outside of cable adjusters, etc.
I'm hoping my Nokons don't crumble to dust - I've been so impressed with their braking performance, and am considering chucking them on my CAAD8 too. Was thinking about wiping them down with GT85 as a preventative measure.
Got it, Duralac and etch primer, LAMEy Spangly.
You're welcome, it's what is used on aircraft which are predominantly alloy. (From my days as an aircraft techician).
Edit.
Don't forget to use etch primer on bare alloy not just any old metal primer.
Doesn't the EU sale of goods directive give 2 years manufacturing warranty to all purchases within the EU. We're still in at the mo.
Hi Spangly, Duralac is a great tip. Thanks.
Hi Billy1mate, they drilled into the frame after painting which left exposed Aluminium from which corrosion began and caused the paint to 'bubble'. They didn't even need to repalce the frame, they could have just cleaned and repainted the affected areas. Unfortunately, it's been a while now so I have to live with it but I will not buy Cannondale again. A shame they cannot treat their customers, with legitimate issues, better and maintain brand loyalty.
The treatment you've received from Cannondale has set alarm bells ringing for me, they could quite easily have taken your frame back and sent you a replacement instead of harping on about the paint finish not being covered. I have a carbon Synapse and an aluminium Quick Speed but I am not sure I want to stay with the brand if this is their attitude. If the corrosion is in several places this also suggests the frame was not properly prepared prior to painting (degreased, anodized, primed etc.) I would peruse this a bit more because regardless of the warranty it has corroded after 1 year of use, this isn't really acceptable. I expect there is something in the Sale of Goods Act that will help you resolve this to your satisfaction.
As prevoiusly commented, best to rub down all the white powder (aluminium alloy corrosion products) and repaint. When reassembling avoid galvanic corrosion by using a pigmented varnish jounting compound such as Duralac between dissimilar metals. It's a bit messy but it works.
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/bonding-structural-adhesives/duralac.html
The attitude from Cannondale has put me of them unfortunately. The Supersix Hi Mod is a beautiful bike and the CAADs are good models. I set myself, from the start, on the Italian breeds and have one each of the big four ☺.
Carbon is electrically conductive (much less then metals though) and can lead to Aluminium corrosion. Not sure if the carbon degrades itself. Also, Epoxy resin used in Carbon fibre constructions can deteriorate under UV light, hence, UV resistant epoxies are used.
Just a helpful FYI; carbon frames can corrode. The interface between the carbon fibres and the aluminium inserts (e.g. For bottom brackets, bottle cage screws) has potential for galvanic corrosion (of the aluminium) due to carbon being electrochemically noble and electrically conductive. Carbon wheels with ali spoke nipples are great examples of this.
I have to say, I have bought another cannondale.... a Supersix Hi Mod. Carbon doesn't corrode
I actually loved my Criterium 2.0 and won many races on it, even against guys on far newer bikes. The handling was aggressive to say the least
Personally the cosmetics are far less of an issue, and I hanker after a CAAD10 or similar for an every day bike
(Lifelong Cannondale fan)
Hi madcarew,
I did argue with them, quite firmly and logically, that it is not reasonable for a 'quality' and well maitained bike to show corrosion at such an early stage and that even if it is technically over the warranty period that they should remedy the situation. They took it in and 'bounced' it back saying the paintwork is not covered, even though it is the frame corrosion causing the paint to bubble.I think the paintwork clause ia 'get out of jail' card for them. Anyway, the only option is to get a lawyer which is not worth it considering the value of the bike. I know Cannondale has won some awards for the CAAD 12, but I am wary now of buying a Cannondale in the future, and I probably wil not.
I had a cannondale alloy frame for 20 years which developed corrosion around most of the frame openings. Over that 20 years it didn't compromise the frame integrity in any way at all. However, I can understand the OP's frustration at the early onset of this issue. Under the consumer guarantees act (fair trading act?) the item should be free of minor defects and should last for a reasonable time. It's arguable that this is a minor defect and that the paint coating and protection isn't lasting for a resaonable time.
Thanks Johnny, the acf50 sounds like a good idea.
Treat yourself to a can of acf50
Whenever I get a new bike, I cover the weld breather holes with teeny spots of helicopter tape - especially on the stays.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the reply. The opening in the bottom bracket does not function as an exit unfortunately. The bottom bracket does fill with grime and soil which has to be flushed out periodically and actually required me to replace it as grit wore the ball bearings and runners. Annoying is that the 'high-end' bike is corroding after only a year.
DrG, the small holes were not covered by paint and seem to have been drilled after painting. Yes, I just took it for a spin in this stormy weather ☺.
The small holes you see in frames are often there to allow gases to escape when they are welded. These would obviously be covered when painting the frame.
I wouldn't worry about it, it's a commuter bike and is probably going to receive much worse in time.
I agree with DrG that it's probably galvanic corrosion. Copper-slipping the bolts will slow the process down and prevent any of the fasteners getting stuck in the future.
OTT perhaps, but it's multiple points - downtube, chain stays etc. Yes, the bottle cage mounting, but also drilled holes on the stays which only seem to be drainage ports for the frame - the bottom bracket has a large opening for cables which allows spray to enter easily. Careless design and manufacture really.
Actually, I would say that is good design. Water will always be able to get ina frame, and having an easy exit will prevent the frame from filling with water and galvanic corrosion setting in.
For galvanic corrosion to take place you need disimilar materials and also an electrolyte (water).
As was stated in another thread elsewhere on this site, aluminium oxide is very protective and adherent, so there should be no worry about the corroson being 'malignant - alhough I appreciate it could be aesthetically annoying.
I think you're being a bit ott about a little bit of corrosion.
You say that it's a a drilled point, would this hole have a stainless steel bolt in it? A bottle cage/rack mounting? If so it's probably galvanic corrosion due to the mixed metals in contact.
Hi,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it's a matte black finish and priming/repainting seems to be the only solution, but I've heard that the corrosion can continue under the new paint ? I 'm more disappointed that it has happened so quickly and that cannondale fobbed me off so readily. The frame was drilled into after painting - leaving exposed aluminium.
Rub down prime and repaint, should be quite easy to get near colour match, is it black model?