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7 comments
Put this into Google and you'll find one for £1.99: "Shimano BR-RS505 Pad Spacer - Y8N218000"
You don't need to bleed them - as other posters have said, you just need to pry them apart. However, its better to avoid having to do this. You can fashion a pad spacer with an old credit card cut into strips and glued together; if you can't find an old credit card and some superglue, Epic Bleed Solutions will sell you a kit that does the same thing for the princely sum of £4.99.
Just place a little bit of wood/card between pads. Pistons wont come out unless someone repeatedly presses brake lever many times
mostly an issue when working on the bike, as you may pull the levers inadvertently. But even if you do, you can reset the pistons with a soft plastic tyre lever.
Hi,
This is my first disc equipped bike, so i was only following the advice of the bike shop from whom i purchased the bike... The spacer came in the bag of instructions and bits with the bike, and they showed me how to use it. Told me if i take the wheel off and operate the brake lever without a spacer in it then the calipers close up and need bleeding to get the wheel back on.
In the end it doesn't really matter - i've just tried the bike in the car, and it fits just fine with just the front wheel taken off..
Cheers
Erm,
I've taken the wheels of my bike (Shimano BR-785) numerous times to put it in the car; I've never had to worry about putting spacers in the calipers for travel.
Why do you think this is a necessary step?
Cheers,
It's because hydraulic disc brakes automatically compensate for pad wear by bringing the pistons ever closer. But, to do this, they make use of the rotor as a basis.
If you were to pull the brake lever on such a brake system with the wheel (and consequently the rotor) removed, the story is that the pistons can come too far out and no longer allow installation of the wheel/rotor.
You can push them back in, via some sort of tool, or you can take due diligence and put in a bleed spacer to keep the pads apart and guard against the pistons coming out with the wheels off. The spacer is there mainly for maintenance purposes. I believe anything will do as a substitute for the bleed spacer, really.
Mechanical disc brake calipers, by contrast, don't have the brake pad wear auto-compensation, so pressing the levers with no wheel/rotor in the caliper is fine. The actuation arm brings the pads back on its own as the cable returns to its starting position.