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Carbon rims and descending big hills...........

I know this question has been done to death historically, but all of my recent googling brings up links and horror stories from four or five years ago.

 

My question is reasonably simple, I have a set of Fulcrum quattro carbons which i love. I am heading to France in a couple of weeks, staying near Mont Ventoux and riding up and down it a few times. Will I die on the descent if I use the Fulcrum rims? they have the 3Diamant braking surface, which is supposedly fine, but the best I got from Fulcrum was 'we've never had any complaints about the braking surface'

 

Has anybody had any real world experience of a current technology set of carbon clinchers on long steep descents? I know they will get hot, I'm aware of not dragging brakes etc. but will they fail?

 

Thanks

 

Rich

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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madcarew replied to wycombewheeler | 7 years ago
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wycombewheeler][quote=madcarew wrote:

Incidentally, my basic engineering tells me that Energy is proportional to speed squared, so if braking late and hard as suggested by many (to allow the rims time to cool down) I think is probably not good advice, as ultimately the rims have to get rid of more heat (as speed will have built up more in the interim). A safer approach would be to not let your speed get so high in the first place, but still corner as quickly as you can (to reduce the amount of speed loss required). I'm quite happy to be put right by someone with good engineering knowledge. I imagine it is possible (but I think unlikely) that the rate of heat transfer through the carbon may affect the answer.

You are neglecting the air braking energy dissipation. The more energy lost to wind resistance the less that has to be lost through the brake pads. By braking as little as possible speed is kept up and less energy heats the wheel. After all at the top energy is proportional to elevation. This becomes kinetic and then becomes heat either in the air (dispersed and negligible) or in the brake pads and wheel. The worst thing to do would be drag the brakes and descend the entire mountain at 20kph.[/quote

There's an element of truth in what you say, but there's no way it takes less (braking) energy to slow from 90 kph to 40 than it does to go from 70 to 30. (the total energy dissipated is 60% more)

We could develop the argument of dragging the brakes all the way down at 20 kph. The issue, so far as heat build up on the rims, and heat dissipation is, of course the time factor, because the total amoun of energy lost is the same (M x g x h) Do you think that if you dragged the brakes all the way down but only allowed yourself to get to 3 kph the brakes would over heat? of course not, because (in the case of mont ventoux) it would take 7 hours to get to the bottom. At 20 kph it's going to take you an hour. At an average of 60 pkh it's going to take you 20 mins, and because the temperature rise is a function of work, the faster you slow down, the more work is being done, and so the temperature rises higher. When you're dragging the brakes slowly the work is spread over a greater time giving the heat more time to dissipate, so your wheel temp is going to be lower. Your rims will stay at a lower temperature if you maintain a lower steady speed down the hill. The issue will only get clouded if you averaged the same speed but maintained a steady speed of (for example) 40 kph compared to averaging 40 kph but achieveing high speeds and braking hard for the corners. I suspect the average wheel temperature would be similar, but your peak temps would obviously be higher when braking from higher speed which clearly makes the rims more likely to glass or the brakes to melt.. With only a basic engineering knowedge (but reasonable physics) I think this takes us back to my original conclusion that to get to the bottom safest (lowest rim / brake temp) you brake as evenly as possible while still taking the corners as quickly as you can.

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madcarew | 7 years ago
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My recent experience (last weeked, and multiple times over the last 3 yeaars on a set of FFwd carbon tubs) is that they hold up just fine to long (7-12km) descents with frequent braking from 80+kph to +/-40 kph for bends. I'm 80 kg and descend very quickly. I haven't ever had noticable brake fade on these rims (Swiss black pads BTW). My descents aren't alpine descents, but the largest is a Cat 1 climb, 500m vert descent in 7 km with multiple corners and top speed of 80 - 85 kph. I've braked hard from 100 kph to stop on them with no issues too.

It is unlikely you will die due to the brakes' performance. Your performance I can't comment on  1

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Jackson | 7 years ago
2 likes

Pros don't suffer wheel failures on descents because they ride tubs, don't brake much and weigh about 68kg on average, so the point above about pros going 120km/h and being fine is meaningless. It'll be the 85kg MAMIL panicking at 50km/h on his fancy clinchers who'll blow one apart and get a mouthful of tarmac.
If you're light enough to need super light carbon climbing wheels you'll be fine. If not, just take aluminum box section wheels for peace of mind, as it's obviously playing on your mind enough to make a post about it.

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Jimmy Ray Will | 7 years ago
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I do agree however, that people should probably avoid riding terrain they are not comfortable in, on equipment that has been optimised for racing conditions. 

So... if you can't descent without iding teh brakes, use brakes that won't suffer from over heating.

 

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MoutonDeMontagne | 7 years ago
1 like

Rich:

I've got a set of Campag Bora clinchers, which have the same carbon 3Diamant braking surface as the Fucrums that you are running. I used them in the Alps last year (in 30deg plus heat), in addition to UK based hilly rides and haven't had any issues at all. For ref, I use the supplied campag pads, and weigh about 78kg. 

As you mentioned in the OP, I braked harder, but for less time, or if needing to control speed, say in a group, tended to alternate front/back/front so the heat didn't build. Use your noggin' and you'll be fine, as will your wheels. The amount of people with popped tubes/rims (saw more Alu than carbon) on the Etape last year seemed directly proportional to the number descending like bambi with the brakes full on. Odd as riding downhill is not really different to driving downhill, don't drag the brakes! 

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richcrocker79 replied to MoutonDeMontagne | 7 years ago
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MoutonDeMontagne wrote:

Rich:

I've got a set of Campag Bora clinchers, which have the same carbon 3Diamant braking surface as the Fucrums that you are running. I used them in the Alps last year (in 30deg plus heat), in addition to UK based hilly rides and haven't had any issues at all. For ref, I use the supplied campag pads, and weigh about 78kg. 

As you mentioned in the OP, I braked harder, but for less time, or if needing to control speed, say in a group, tended to alternate front/back/front so the heat didn't build. Use your noggin' and you'll be fine, as will your wheels. The amount of people with popped tubes/rims (saw more Alu than carbon) on the Etape last year seemed directly proportional to the number descending like bambi with the brakes full on. Odd as riding downhill is not really different to driving downhill, don't drag the brakes! 

 

Thats great information, thanks Mouton - I've got about a kilo on you, so a perfect comparision.

 

I'm concious of the ride within your experience issue raised by others, but in reality being a UK resident down south, there is very little in the way of 13 miles descents to practice on, so we all have to start somewhere. I'm also mechanically sympathetic, and aware that all kit and people have limitations, hence asking questions before i go!

 

Of course I could just get a new bike with discs, but I'm trying to avoid opening that can of worms on a forum!

 

Cheers

 

Rich

 

 

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surly_by_name | 7 years ago
2 likes

Don't drag the brakes. Brake on the flat bits before the steeps (so don't carry speed into the 12%+ sections on the way down to Malaceune). Brake late, hard and for a short period so as to let rims cool (a bit). Use carbon specific pads. Some of the posts above ramble on a lot about all manner of unrelated things. Use your head and be sensible. You'll be fine. 

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700c | 7 years ago
2 likes

Agree with the above about riding within your skill level and equipment limitations. That's the key point.

As for rims overheating, there are still valid concerns about carbon clinchers on long descents  overheating and blowing the tubes,  but just adjust your speed and style accordingly and you should be fine.

 

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Huw Watkins | 7 years ago
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Mavic's coments from one of their recent wheel launches:

"At the 2015 Etape du Tour, for example, Mavic assisted with 100 wheels, of which 52 were failures and 38 were carbon clinchers that had delaminated, product manager Maxime Brunand said."

Tour magazine did a big carbon clincher test last year and a couple failed under heat duress but none of the failures were either Fulcrum or Campag.  Campag Boras won the test overall so I think its safe to say that Fulcrums will be just as well put together.

 

 

Avatar
Jimmy Ray Will | 7 years ago
1 like

it all depends on how you descend and how heavy you are, and how hot it is. 

I'd also imagine that tyre and rim width will play a factor. 

If you are relatively heavy, and like to drag a brake, then yes, there is a real risk of you blowing tubes on long, hot descents. if however you don't letting the bike go, before hitting the anchors  for turns etc. then you shall probably be fine and dandy. 

The problem with carbon rims is that they don't shed braking heat quickly. Different resins, and using more effective braking surfaces can reduce heat build up a bit, but fundamentally a carbon rim is going to get hot and stay hot when being braked. 

There is no fool proof solution to this sadly... which to me is another reason why the industries are pushing discs so hard. 

 

Avatar
BehindTheBikesheds replied to Jimmy Ray Will | 7 years ago
1 like

Jimmy Ray Will wrote:

it all depends on how you descend and how heavy you are, and how hot it is. 

I'd also imagine that tyre and rim width will play a factor. 

If you are relatively heavy, and like to drag a brake, then yes, there is a real risk of you blowing tubes on long, hot descents. if however you don't letting the bike go, before hitting the anchors  for turns etc. then you shall probably be fine and dandy. 

The problem with carbon rims is that they don't shed braking heat quickly. Different resins, and using more effective braking surfaces can reduce heat build up a bit, but fundamentally a carbon rim is going to get hot and stay hot when being braked. 

There is no fool proof solution to this sadly... which to me is another reason why the industries are pushing discs so hard. 

 

I agree with all that you've said bar the disc aspect. How often do the pros, well actually anyone crash on high speed wet descents due to actual inadequate braking power on carbon rims?

Aren't incidents a combination of not understanding the limitations of your kit in X conditions and failing to adapt to that, AKA pushing the boundaries and going beyond and then most of all find that the limiting factor is in fact the human in their judgement and the tyres not the brakes themselves?

Yes, in the wet, discs have a clear advantage (over rim brakes) in ultimate braking power and how much later you can brake to stop at the same point, also for some who don't bother to learn how to control the amount of braking will be helped out by discs in that respect too (modulation).

However similar with motorvehicles, you'll end up with people pushing the new 'envelope' same as before, gain more confidence so braking much later and finding that they no longer have sufficient thinking time in certain instances and braking later means the tyres are going to lose traction more often due to much harder, later braking from higher speeds in the wet thus we will still have the same amount of crashes if not more due to these factors.

The 'solution' is not go with a system that is cumbersome/ugly and adds weight/changes where the stress points on the frame and forks are, and loses a significant amount aerodynamically (all negatives IMHO) but to learn when you need to brake in x conditions at x speed, learn how to navigate descents and bends better/safer without having to be on the brakes all the time, learn how to modulate your braking and that if you can't descend to a reasonable standard and be safe with respect to yourself and other road users then maybe think long and hard about where you cycle and if the conditions/terrain is beyond your and your bikes capability just stay away and choose something less risky.

Just because one has a bike similar or even better than a pro doesn't mean you have any business being in certain environs trying to copy them, particularly in not so great conditions. Doing so has catastrophic outcomes all too often and discs will not resolve this at all.

If discs were so great why do we still have millions of crashes in motorvehicles every year in the UK alone with 185,000 killed or injured despite all the protective systems in modern vehicles? it's not the brakes themselves but the higher speeds, later braking, loss of traction of tyres and smaller window of thinking time for the human.

The ONLY reason manufacturers have come up with discs is to make money, they can try to sell it as a safety feature all they want but it's totally bogus.

If the OP is concerned and doesn't have the required experience/skill (it sounds to me they don't) then I suggest they simply stay away from the descent mentioned and go ride somewhere where they are within their experience/skillset until they are sure they can do so safely with the kit they have, this should apply to all. I know and have seen even in the pro ranks of too many people riding beyond their capabilities and coming a cropper, great athletes but not so good at understanding X, Y and Z.

 

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Jimmy Ray Will replied to BehindTheBikesheds | 7 years ago
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BehindTheBikesheds wrote:

Jimmy Ray Will wrote:

it all depends on how you descend and how heavy you are, and how hot it is. 

I'd also imagine that tyre and rim width will play a factor. 

If you are relatively heavy, and like to drag a brake, then yes, there is a real risk of you blowing tubes on long, hot descents. if however you don't letting the bike go, before hitting the anchors  for turns etc. then you shall probably be fine and dandy. 

The problem with carbon rims is that they don't shed braking heat quickly. Different resins, and using more effective braking surfaces can reduce heat build up a bit, but fundamentally a carbon rim is going to get hot and stay hot when being braked. 

There is no fool proof solution to this sadly... which to me is another reason why the industries are pushing discs so hard. 

 

I agree with all that you've said bar the disc aspect. How often do the pros, well actually anyone crash on high speed wet descents due to actual inadequate braking power on carbon rims?

Aren't incidents a combination of not understanding the limitations of your kit in X conditions and failing to adapt to that, AKA pushing the boundaries and going beyond and then most of all find that the limiting factor is in fact the human in their judgement and the tyres not the brakes themselves?

Yes, in the wet, discs have a clear advantage (over rim brakes) in ultimate braking power and how much later you can brake to stop at the same point, also for some who don't bother to learn how to control the amount of braking will be helped out by discs in that respect too (modulation).

However similar with motorvehicles, you'll end up with people pushing the new 'envelope' same as before, gain more confidence so braking much later and finding that they no longer have sufficient thinking time in certain instances and braking later means the tyres are going to lose traction more often due to much harder, later braking from higher speeds in the wet thus we will still have the same amount of crashes if not more due to these factors.

The 'solution' is not go with a system that is cumbersome/ugly and adds weight/changes where the stress points on the frame and forks are, and loses a significant amount aerodynamically (all negatives IMHO) but to learn when you need to brake in x conditions at x speed, learn how to navigate descents and bends better/safer without having to be on the brakes all the time, learn how to modulate your braking and that if you can't descend to a reasonable standard and be safe with respect to yourself and other road users then maybe think long and hard about where you cycle and if the conditions/terrain is beyond your and your bikes capability just stay away and choose something less risky.

Just because one has a bike similar or even better than a pro doesn't mean you have any business being in certain environs trying to copy them, particularly in not so great conditions. Doing so has catastrophic outcomes all too often and discs will not resolve this at all.

If discs were so great why do we still have millions of crashes in motorvehicles every year in the UK alone with 185,000 killed or injured despite all the protective systems in modern vehicles? it's not the brakes themselves but the higher speeds, later braking, loss of traction of tyres and smaller window of thinking time for the human.

The ONLY reason manufacturers have come up with discs is to make money, they can try to sell it as a safety feature all they want but it's totally bogus.

If the OP is concerned and doesn't have the required experience/skill (it sounds to me they don't) then I suggest they simply stay away from the descent mentioned and go ride somewhere where they are within their experience/skillset until they are sure they can do so safely with the kit they have, this should apply to all. I know and have seen even in the pro ranks of too many people riding beyond their capabilities and coming a cropper, great athletes but not so good at understanding X, Y and Z.

 

 

Yar, you may have missed the point I was making about discs. One reason the industry is keen to push them is because there is no ultimate 'fix' for carbon clinchers. Carbon will always get hot, which in turn heats the tubes, which in extreme scenarios causes blow outs. These are common enough to be a recognised problem in ral world riding as; not everyone is under 75kg and not everyone has the ability and desire to let a bike go on a steep / long descent. 

The only definitive fix for carbon clinchers is to remove the braking surface away from the rim... hence the disc requirement.

carbon rims are more expensive, and more desirable than alloy rims, so naturally something the industry wants to keep. 

That said, a carbon tubless set up could get as hot as it likes, it wouldn't blow any tubes.

 

 

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Nixster replied to Jimmy Ray Will | 7 years ago
1 like

That said, a carbon tubless set up could get as hot as it likes, it wouldn't blow any tubes.

[/quote]

 

Assuming you meant 'tubeless' this is not true I'm afraid.  At a certain point the rim will overheat and itself fail structurally.  A tubeless setup has the same lateral forces on the rim wall as a tubed setup and it is this lateral force on weakened rims that causes some of the wheel failures.

Tubs have the edge here, if they get hot there is less stress on the rim as there isn't any force required to hold the tyre on, the glue or tape does that.  Or does that until it melts, which is a different but equally scary failure mechanism...

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Mungecrundle | 7 years ago
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I'm sure that wheels are better nowdays but my experience from quite a few years ago of braking on carbon rims (HED trispokes without the metal braking track) was adequate in the dry and utterly terrifying in the wet. I have in my time also witnessed a carbon rim disintegrating during heavy braking on a steep downhill.

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CycleDivvy | 7 years ago
0 likes

I used a set of Cero RC45s which I've never had any issues with on descents, although granted i've never been down Ventoux on them.

I think the quality of carbon wheels has come on so much in the past few years that you don't hear many of these horror stories anymore. Descent with confidence!

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Canyon48 | 7 years ago
0 likes

No real world experience, but...

Look at the speeds the pros were hitting in the Tour de Suisse, 120kph+, their wheels didn't fail.

Not to say they don't fail - ever seen the video of the guy riding a Canyon down Mount Ventoux and he overheats the pads?

Comes down to how heavy you are and how much breaking you are doing. Personally, I wouldn't be too worried about using a pro level set of carbon wheels on a descent, one would hope that they have been tested and designed against failure.

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Sniffer replied to Canyon48 | 7 years ago
2 likes

wellsprop wrote:

No real world experience, but...

Look at the speeds the pros were hitting in the Tour de Suisse, 120kph+, their wheels didn't fail.

Not to say they don't fail - ever seen the video of the guy riding a Canyon down Mount Ventoux and he overheats the pads?

Comes down to how heavy you are and how much breaking you are doing. Personally, I wouldn't be too worried about using a pro level set of carbon wheels on a descent, one would hope that they have been tested and designed against failure.

Not sure Pro experience helps the OP.  Pros don't ride clinchers, they ride tubs. 

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Canyon48 replied to Sniffer | 7 years ago
0 likes

Sniffer wrote:

wellsprop wrote:

No real world experience, but...

Look at the speeds the pros were hitting in the Tour de Suisse, 120kph+, their wheels didn't fail.

Not to say they don't fail - ever seen the video of the guy riding a Canyon down Mount Ventoux and he overheats the pads?

Comes down to how heavy you are and how much breaking you are doing. Personally, I wouldn't be too worried about using a pro level set of carbon wheels on a descent, one would hope that they have been tested and designed against failure.

Not sure Pro experience helps the OP.  Pros don't ride clinchers, they ride tubs. 

Yeah, fair point, totally forgot to think about that!

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