Four-time Tour de France winner Chris Froome has revealed that he still regularly experiences disc brake issues but he has a solution of sorts: he puts earphones in so he can’t hear them rubbing.
“I’d say either everyone uses them, or no-one does,” he commented.
Then Froome spoke about disc brakes in a YouTube video early last year. He said, “I don't think the technology is quite where it needs to be.”
He said that he wasn't “100 per cent sold” on the technology and mentioned that he had concerns over rubbing, overheating and the potential for rotors to warp.
Froome tried a number of different parts with the aim of alleviating the problems. Rather than the Shimano equipment normally used by Israel Start-Up Nation, Froome’s bike was fitted with Magura MT8 SL FM disc brakes during the 2021 Tour de France. The team also used SwissStop pads and rotors.
Froome returns to the subject of disc brakes in his latest YouTube video.
“I don’t know if you can hear that,” he says.
We can hear that – ‘that’ being the sound of his disc brakes rubbing.
“My entertainment with disc brakes continues. I think they're sort of work in progress. I think the technology is improving but the margins are so slim. You do a big descent and the alignment moves completely so I need to stop and readjust everything again.
“We’re riding Shimano at the moment. I hear the new 12-speed Shimano has sorted out some of these issues but… with the 11-speed [we’re] still getting a lot of rubbing, getting one piston firing more than the other one, which always puts things out of alignment.
“No matter how many mechanics I’ve spoken to or taken the bike to, you just can't get 100% on top of that. [You] always… start getting a few issues as soon as you start doing some some really big descents.
“But c’est la vie, for the time being. Just put the earphones in and pretend I can't hear it.”
Okay, it’s not tackling the issue at source but this is one way of dealing with it.
Froome is still using 11-speed Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 components because, although launched last year, there have been supply issues with Shimano Dura-Ace R9200 mostly due to fallout from the Covid-19 pandemic.
Shimano says that its R9270 Dura-Ace hydraulic disc brake calliper has a 10% wider pad clearance than previously to reduce the chance of rotor rub.
Shimano also says that there’s less heat deformation with its RT-MT900 rotors, meaning a reduced chance of interference.
In our review of the Shimano Dura-Ace R9200 groupset, Liam said, “Yes, the pad clearance has been increased by 10 per cent but that is 10 per cent of a tiny gap. It isn't enough to clear a rotor warped by heat, and while the MT900 rotors are better than the old Dura-Ace design, I still prefer SwissStop or Campagnolo rotors with their solid design. They might be a touch heavier, but they don't seem to warp quite as easily.
“This rotor warping results in that annoying ting-ting-ting sound when you come off the brakes after scrubbing off a lot of speed. You can also get a tiny bit of noise if you lean the bike over excessively when sprinting or out of the saddle on a climb. For me, it's an issue that can be solved by using a better rotor, though that will be a change you make based on personal preference.”
It’ll be interesting to hear Chris Froome’s reaction when he gets to use Shimano Dura-Ace R9200
Help us to fund our site
We’ve noticed you’re using an ad blocker. If you like road.cc, but you don’t like ads, please consider subscribing to the site to support us directly. As a subscriber you can read road.cc ad-free, from as little as £1.99.
If you don’t want to subscribe, please turn your ad blocker off. The revenue from adverts helps to fund our site.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, then please consider subscribing to road.cc from as little as £1.99. Our mission is to bring you all the news that’s relevant to you as a cyclist, independent reviews, impartial buying advice and more. Your subscription will help us to do more.
Mat has been in cycling media since 1996, on titles including BikeRadar, Total Bike, Total Mountain Bike, What Mountain Bike and Mountain Biking UK, and he has been editor of 220 Triathlon and Cycling Plus. Mat has been road.cc technical editor for over a decade, testing bikes, fettling the latest kit, and trying out the most up-to-the-minute clothing. He has won his category in Ironman UK 70.3 and finished on the podium in both marathons he has run. Mat is a Cambridge graduate who did a post-grad in magazine journalism, and he is a winner of the Cycling Media Award for Specialist Online Writer. Now over 50, he's riding road and gravel bikes most days for fun and fitness rather than training for competitions.
I would be annoyed by considerably less disc brake noise than that! Fortunately, it doesn't seem to happen with mechanical dual piston disk brakes like TRP Spyre. I suppose this is because it's a simple mechanical cam arrangement so the pads do move equally, and because I'm not travelling downhill at warp speeds so don't generate the heat, even with a heavy trailer. Time for the people on here using hydraulics to pipe up!
I'd like to know why the pistons can be uneven - aren't the tolerances better than what you end up with? Took ages to unstick one but still leaves it uneven.
Using my Park piston press, working them in and out, cleaning and lubing with a bit of silicon lube as advised by Hope. Works for a bit, but I get generally even pad wear over each pad and relatively similar between the pads, normally better on the rear for some reason.
Still getting to know them, took over a decade to really get how to get the best out of my curve cantis, and they needed lots doing. Though my xtr Vs needed absolutely no effort at all, apart from a bit of spring tension fettleing, but no rim wear on the ceramic braking tracks.
I have never used hydraulic discs- aren't both pistons fed by the same tube? In any case the equal movement of pistons seems dependent upon equal freedom of the 2 or 4 pistons which aren't mechanically tightly coupled.
That's right, it's down to a bit of uneven friction, and in fact it is the same problem you get on rim brakes which can get lopsided too, especially with winter corrosion.
However, under normal usage, while one may move quicker than the other under light pressure (like when testing) under the pressure of normal braking, the slight differences of movement normally more or less sorts itself out on reaching the disc. The piston seals are lubricated by the brake fluid, so there can be a death spiral of sticking, then not getting lubricated so sticking more. A few applications of the brake often will cheer them up no end.
One of the problems on road bikes, especially riding solo, is that quite often you don't use brakes much, so they can get a bit grotty, but they normally clean up with a bit of deliberately hard braking. Always worth a good hard press on your brakes before setting off anyway, just to be convinced they are still attached - or to check you remembered to replace the pads after messing!
I'm a rimmer til I die. Replacing all those perishing o rings. Bleeding the brakes. WTF?! The rim brake is king. Quality pads and experience makes a good rimmer...
Presumably you haven't heard the rumours about why Red Dwarf's Rimmer was called Rimmer?
Rik Mayals unde...replied to Fignon's ghost |2 years ago
0 likes
I used to be a traditionalist, my Colnago C60 has rim brakes and mechanical Super Record RS groupset, I love it.
But, I replaced my ageing winter bike a couple of years ago and went disc for one main reason. I was having new rims built onto my hubs every year as the rims aren't built as strong nowadays. Mavis used to be bombproof, back in the 80s I don't remember anyone wearing rims out.
I speeced my new bike with Hope RX4 4 pot calipers. A revelation. They don't rub, they need little finger pressure as they're 4 pot, they don't lock up. And the winter bike doesn't get as filthy when used on a wet ride.
I've just taken delivery of my new work bike, and specced it with the same Hope RX4 calipers as I am so pleased with them.
Would I get disc brakes on my next best bike? Possibly. I do like my C60 being a traditional bike though.
Same with electronic groupsets, I get them for the pros, but I have known a mate out for a ride in the arse end of bum fucked nowhere, and the gears have had a hissy fit, the last time he had to ride back from near Hawes to Preston with it stuck in his biggest gear. I like the simplicity of a bike, what can go wrong with mechanical gears, apart from a frayed cable? Which doesn't seem to happen now with the decent stainless cables.
I too have a C60 with rim brakes but opted for SR EPS. Did your mate have Campag? My EPS system has not let me down since I bought the bike in 2016. I charge it every 2 months or so and it has proved totally reliable and has not needed the slightest adjustment in 14000km. The rim brakes are excellent and only occasionally need adjusting for pad wear and that only takes a few seconds. The weakness of pad brakes is, as we all know, in the wet but then I adjust my speed accordingly whereas the disc brakes on my 2019 gravel bike emit an ear-piercing squeel and make scraping noises due to grit getting thrown up in the water. The SRAM red brakes were so bad I replaced them with Hope RX4 which are an improvement except for the squeeling when wet. I reckon the XTR/Avid Ultimate v-brakes on my old touring bike are far superior.
Overall, I would buy the C60 again and not change a thing. It is a pleasure to ride every time I go out on it. After servicing it and parking it for the winter I got it out about 3 weeks ago and I think I had a grin on my face setting off down the road. That doesn't happen on the gravel bike.
I'm a rimmer til I die. Replacing all those perishing o rings. Bleeding the brakes. WTF?! The rim brake is king. Quality pads and experience makes a good rimmer...
Exactly, the same people who use disc brakes on road bikes are the same gullible people who fell for 'L shaped cranks' and used to drill holes in everything and have to keep up with the latest fashion to impress on the club run - please get a life.
Exactly, the same people who use disc brakes on road bikes are the same gullible people who fell for 'L shaped cranks' and used to drill holes in everything and have to keep up with the latest fashion to impress on the club run
Wow! Real Class A bollocks, rarely seen even on here. There's a career for you at the hyper-junk press.
Exactly, the same people who use disc brakes on road bikes are the same gullible people who fell for 'L shaped cranks' and used to drill holes in everything and have to keep up with the latest fashion to impress on the club run - please get a life.
prime way to announce one's irrelevance. It must bother you that those gullible disc shills couldn't give a toss about what kind of brake you have
Another example of what the Pro peleton needs differs from the every day rider. As an every day rider, I simply do not stress the components in the way a pro rider does. What I do get is reliable, easier stopping in all weathers.
As the resolve issues for the pros, we will then get the benefits trickling down, so keep it up Froomey, but don't let his (genuine) concerns sway every day riders from the real safety benefits - and cost savings, being able to ride wheels without destroying them is a significant cost saving, I wore out 3 wheel sets on my previous bike yet in the same mileage I've worn out one front disc on my Defy.
I'm with you Ian. A friend recently strode into my garage, looked at my disc equipped Canyon hanging on the wall and pronounced that he would never change from rim brakes because of all the disc rubbing problems.
My reply was simply to walk over to the bike, spin the front wheel and step back. As it invariably does, the wheel carried on turning for ages without a sound.
My front rubs loads when really filthy and a fair bit when very wet, which given my commute does happen, riding fast for a bit sorts it, though they do scream at me when I haul on the anchors. But they work very consistently whatever the conditions. My xtr v on ceramic rims looses more in the wet and my alloy cantilever looses loads, and I ate through a set of mavic crossmax last winter, getting them so to preserve my last set of very precious mavic 26 717s.
Add new comment
51 comments
I would be annoyed by considerably less disc brake noise than that! Fortunately, it doesn't seem to happen with mechanical dual piston disk brakes like TRP Spyre. I suppose this is because it's a simple mechanical cam arrangement so the pads do move equally, and because I'm not travelling downhill at warp speeds so don't generate the heat, even with a heavy trailer. Time for the people on here using hydraulics to pipe up!
I'd like to know why the pistons can be uneven - aren't the tolerances better than what you end up with? Took ages to unstick one but still leaves it uneven.
Using my Park piston press, working them in and out, cleaning and lubing with a bit of silicon lube as advised by Hope. Works for a bit, but I get generally even pad wear over each pad and relatively similar between the pads, normally better on the rear for some reason.
Still getting to know them, took over a decade to really get how to get the best out of my curve cantis, and they needed lots doing. Though my xtr Vs needed absolutely no effort at all, apart from a bit of spring tension fettleing, but no rim wear on the ceramic braking tracks.
I'd like to know why the pistons can be uneven
I have never used hydraulic discs- aren't both pistons fed by the same tube? In any case the equal movement of pistons seems dependent upon equal freedom of the 2 or 4 pistons which aren't mechanically tightly coupled.
That's right, it's down to a bit of uneven friction, and in fact it is the same problem you get on rim brakes which can get lopsided too, especially with winter corrosion.
However, under normal usage, while one may move quicker than the other under light pressure (like when testing) under the pressure of normal braking, the slight differences of movement normally more or less sorts itself out on reaching the disc. The piston seals are lubricated by the brake fluid, so there can be a death spiral of sticking, then not getting lubricated so sticking more. A few applications of the brake often will cheer them up no end.
One of the problems on road bikes, especially riding solo, is that quite often you don't use brakes much, so they can get a bit grotty, but they normally clean up with a bit of deliberately hard braking. Always worth a good hard press on your brakes before setting off anyway, just to be convinced they are still attached - or to check you remembered to replace the pads after messing!
Well, he's not wrong.
I'm a rimmer til I die.
Replacing all those perishing o rings. Bleeding the brakes. WTF?!
The rim brake is king. Quality pads and experience makes a good rimmer...
Keep your bedroom habits to yourself please, this is a cycling website!
Presumably you haven't heard the rumours about why Red Dwarf's Rimmer was called Rimmer?
What the smeg is the reason?
I used to be a traditionalist, my Colnago C60 has rim brakes and mechanical Super Record RS groupset, I love it.
But, I replaced my ageing winter bike a couple of years ago and went disc for one main reason. I was having new rims built onto my hubs every year as the rims aren't built as strong nowadays. Mavis used to be bombproof, back in the 80s I don't remember anyone wearing rims out.
I speeced my new bike with Hope RX4 4 pot calipers. A revelation. They don't rub, they need little finger pressure as they're 4 pot, they don't lock up. And the winter bike doesn't get as filthy when used on a wet ride.
I've just taken delivery of my new work bike, and specced it with the same Hope RX4 calipers as I am so pleased with them.
Would I get disc brakes on my next best bike? Possibly. I do like my C60 being a traditional bike though.
Same with electronic groupsets, I get them for the pros, but I have known a mate out for a ride in the arse end of bum fucked nowhere, and the gears have had a hissy fit, the last time he had to ride back from near Hawes to Preston with it stuck in his biggest gear. I like the simplicity of a bike, what can go wrong with mechanical gears, apart from a frayed cable? Which doesn't seem to happen now with the decent stainless cables.
I too have a C60 with rim brakes but opted for SR EPS. Did your mate have Campag? My EPS system has not let me down since I bought the bike in 2016. I charge it every 2 months or so and it has proved totally reliable and has not needed the slightest adjustment in 14000km. The rim brakes are excellent and only occasionally need adjusting for pad wear and that only takes a few seconds. The weakness of pad brakes is, as we all know, in the wet but then I adjust my speed accordingly whereas the disc brakes on my 2019 gravel bike emit an ear-piercing squeel and make scraping noises due to grit getting thrown up in the water. The SRAM red brakes were so bad I replaced them with Hope RX4 which are an improvement except for the squeeling when wet. I reckon the XTR/Avid Ultimate v-brakes on my old touring bike are far superior.
Overall, I would buy the C60 again and not change a thing. It is a pleasure to ride every time I go out on it. After servicing it and parking it for the winter I got it out about 3 weeks ago and I think I had a grin on my face setting off down the road. That doesn't happen on the gravel bike.
Oh, and don't get me started on tubeless.
So far all I've needed to do is replace the pads. What am I doing wrong?!
Exactly, the same people who use disc brakes on road bikes are the same gullible people who fell for 'L shaped cranks' and used to drill holes in everything and have to keep up with the latest fashion to impress on the club run - please get a life.
Says someone who has never ridden a bike in Sheffield.
Exactly, the same people who use disc brakes on road bikes are the same gullible people who fell for 'L shaped cranks' and used to drill holes in everything and have to keep up with the latest fashion to impress on the club run
Wow! Real Class A bollocks, rarely seen even on here. There's a career for you at the hyper-junk press.
prime way to announce one's irrelevance. It must bother you that those gullible disc shills couldn't give a toss about what kind of brake you have
I think it's more to do with the incessant moaning from all those disc users about their "rubbing", "grinding" and "screaming" noises.
I for one think it's disgusting.
Another example of what the Pro peleton needs differs from the every day rider. As an every day rider, I simply do not stress the components in the way a pro rider does. What I do get is reliable, easier stopping in all weathers.
As the resolve issues for the pros, we will then get the benefits trickling down, so keep it up Froomey, but don't let his (genuine) concerns sway every day riders from the real safety benefits - and cost savings, being able to ride wheels without destroying them is a significant cost saving, I wore out 3 wheel sets on my previous bike yet in the same mileage I've worn out one front disc on my Defy.
I'm with you Ian. A friend recently strode into my garage, looked at my disc equipped Canyon hanging on the wall and pronounced that he would never change from rim brakes because of all the disc rubbing problems.
My reply was simply to walk over to the bike, spin the front wheel and step back. As it invariably does, the wheel carried on turning for ages without a sound.
He left quietly.
My front rubs loads when really filthy and a fair bit when very wet, which given my commute does happen, riding fast for a bit sorts it, though they do scream at me when I haul on the anchors. But they work very consistently whatever the conditions. My xtr v on ceramic rims looses more in the wet and my alloy cantilever looses loads, and I ate through a set of mavic crossmax last winter, getting them so to preserve my last set of very precious mavic 26 717s.
Pages