Mech vs electronic Gearsets

Just to add that even whilst riding rear trim adjustments are easy. Hold the button down on the junction box 2 seconds then tap the rear ship buttons for the micro adjust when happy with the chain line push the junction box button again.

I love my Di2 but it does take away the artistry of riding a little, yes it is foolproof!

Regardless of cost, I wouldn't want electronic because mechanical shifting suits me fine for the cycling I do. I don't need pro-level shifting for a spin around the lanes or a commute to work.

Ive been running Ultegra Di2 for 3 years now aswell as Dura Ace Di2

The battery thing always makes me laugh, if u manage to flat the battery by ignoring all the warning signs then u deserve to be stuck in one gear miless from home lol

All you need to do is check the battery warning indicator before every ride by holding down a shift button, simples

If you do forget to do that then no problem, the system is designed so the front mech stops working first (as it uses the most power) so this would tell you that you have a low battery

Still no need to worry as the rear mech will still have another 70 odd miles of shifts out of the battery (less shifts more miles and visa versa)

Then finally if you manage to fully flat the battery then the system simply stays in the gear your currently in

I have flatted my battery on purpose out on short rides home from work and found when fully flat and it will not shift if you leave it for 5 mins (carry on riding in the same gear) then you will get a limited shifts allowing you select a easier/harder gear

The system is quite easy to fix if there are any issues, just like most electronics check all the battery and wire connections are clean and fully seated, the majority of the wires run internally so there shouldn't be any damage to them so just check where they come out of the fame for any obvious signs of damage

Invest in a Di2 diagnostic kit, can be picked up for around £120, great bit of kit, not only will it help you fix a fault if your unlucky to have one but also allows you to set up custom shifting etc... bike shops charge around £40 a time to hook your bike upto their diagnostic kit so worth investing in your own

I personally think electronic shifting isn't expensive but realise it isn't cheap especially if your on a budget

With Sram wireless not too far away and Fsa's electronic groupset rumored to be released this year prices will drop and im sure many more electronic systems will be seen on complete bikes

I love electric shift. I had my doubts till I tried it, mainly due to concerns over running out of battery. But as has been said already, it is easy to check and charges are quick.

Good to see another GCN fan here too!

I upgraded my Groupset a few months and would have gone down the electronic route if it wasn't for three factors:
Talking to the guys in my LBS they still experience unexplainable gremlins with some electronic builds. One GS could be perfect, the next might be nothing but trouble.
My current frame isn't electronic compatible and I figured exposed wires would be plain ugly.
Surely it's only a matter of time before wireless groupsets are the norm across all three brands. That'll most likely be the point when I'll convert.

id be tempted if the mechs weren't just so plain fugly, especially the front.

I took the plunge in to 6870 Di2 last year after i wrote off a bike in a crash. I will be honest and say that it was not my first choice, i would have gone mechanical but the deal i got on the Scott Foil HMX with Ultegra Di2 was too good to miss.

One of the main questions is what happens if the battery dies. So lets talk about charging. I have charged the battery 3 times in 7 months, once to start with and the other 2 times to be safe as i was doing a big event. Losing power would have the same effect as a gear cable snapping. The only difference being that with a snapped cable you wil be able to operate one of your mechs (pray for the rear!).

In terms of maintenance Di2 is so easy. The usual post ride clean and your done. No bi weekly tune up and cable adjustment. I also use a couple of wheel sets for different types of ride which have slightly different cassette alignment. Using the software i have noted the settings for each wheel on the rear mech. So when changing wheels its a simple plug in and adjust rather than manually playing with the barrel adjuster.

Shifting is clean and crisp leaving you to concentrate on putting the power down. The mouse click shifting takes no time to get used to and one of the things i really like is being able to brake and shift at the same time which is handy on hairpins you want to push out of.

My winter bike is still mechanical but during this winter it has felt like a chore keeping it running true after a summer of Di2 hassle free riding.

I think cost is a big issue though, so not sure if you can completely discount it.

Last summer someone was moaning about another competitor in the over 14s race 9(!) running into the back of their electronic mech and destroying it. That is quite an expensive race.

Also, I wonder how those on Ultegra 10 speed di2 would get on if they were to damage a rear mech as electronic 10 speed mechs are no longer available?

It's an interesting topic, my next bike will be electronic with Ultegra Di2 - I'm just trying to decide which bike atm!

As I understand it:

Cables stretch over time and are potentially subject to ingress by the elements, i.e. they need maintenance - an electronic wire doesn't.

The batteries last an age on Di2, charging 3-4 times a year is apparently common. Even when they do run out (assuming you ignored the low battery light), you still have enough charge to change the rear mech 5-600 times - which should be enough to get you home.

I have read of horror stories where Di2 won't reset (not sure whether this was older firmware, hell I'm not even sure if the firmware on Di2 is self update-able). I'm not sure what this really means other than a trip to the bike shop.

The electronic parts are more expensive than the mechanical, i.e. a snapped rear mech will cost a lot more to put right.

I don't know what's involved in indexing electronic gears, not sure whether it's simpler than doing mechanical (I have to say I find the mechanical ones to be a pain in the arse).

Electronic will auto-trim the front cage to prevent chain rub when cross gearing, not that you should be doing that anyway, but.

HTH.

Interesting question. Sadly not used electronic yet, but am certainly interested in the answers. The main downside for an amateur is the inherent problems of having a charged battery and a solution to issues when things go wrong that don't require having a soigneur sat in the back of a four door saloon car.