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8 comments
If you absolutely have to have the rear mech barrel adjuster then you could consider a helicoil to replace the thread, but this depends on how much material there is around the thread on the mech
as above - shimano mtb rear mechs have lacked screw adjusters for some years now - so if running a gravel bike style set up with sti's and a mtb rear mech in line adjuster it is and they work, its a good fix not a bodge
If cheap is most important then an adjuster with a nut either side would get it all working for next to nothing. But it would be a faff to adjust.
Can you not get a helicoil fitted, that would be the easiest option and shouldnt cost much.
The in-line barrel adjuster is hardly a hack, many shimano ystems come with it installed. Go for it, it's a chap and easy fix for your bike with no downturn in performance.
There's no point trying to rethread it if it's properly chewed up. Either buy a new one or, cheaper option, fit an inline adjuster. You'll need a new inner cable because it's quicker to fit the adjuster by cutting through the outer and inner cable together.
This the thing you'll need: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/?iid=122368136741&&&adgroupid=43333907642&rlsat...
Cannot speak for the LBS but it's possible they don't have the rethread tool (tap). If you have a machine shop near you they have the tools to do a rethread. Otherwise, if you know how to adjust the rear mech it's pretty easy with external cables to install in-line barrel adjusters. Last option is pay the LBS.
It's not really 'for good' - it's just an extra dooberry inserted into the cable run. Unless I'm misunderstanding where they will be installing it. Where exactly is this 'hack' going to be?
On my bikes (external routing), there's three places where barrel adjusters could be: on the mech, on the down tube, and where the cables come out of the shifters - I have old-style 105 and Ultegra, where the cable emerges from the side.
In fact, I have barrel adjusters by the shifters of my new build - a Cannondale CAAD8 - as it came with them instead of on the downtube. I quite like them - it means I can fine-tune the shifting as I'm pedalling along.