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How much hassle is it to swap chainset rings?

by sergius
Fri, Jun 02, 2017 16:38
8

I've just ordered a new winter bike (Canyon Inflite AL9s), which happens to come with a semi-compact Ultegra chainset (52/36 mechanical).  After a bike crash in January when I fractured both wrists after coming a croper on some ice, I wanted something I could use offroad if it's wet and cold with just a change of tyres.

 

On my best bike I've Ultegra Di2, after much procrastinating I went with a compact chainset on that bike (50/36).  Both bikes have full Ultegra groupsets, the only difference being one is mechanical and the other electric, both have 11-32 cassettes fitted.  

 

I'm contemplating swapping the rings over between the bikes, it doesn't make much sense for my winter bike to have higher gearing than my best bike.  

 

I've had a quick look online, I hadn't realised that I couldn't just swap the rings across without having to dismantle anything.  I seem to have all the required tools already as I had to pick a BB removal tool the other day to swap my Centrelock disk rotors around.

 

I'm now thinking I may as well just swap the cranksets between bikes - I assume there is no difference between a mechanical and Di2 crankset?  The chain lengths may be slightly different I guess, but both are using a Shimano HG11 Ultegra chain anyway - and I'd fit a quicklink to the new bike as a matter of course  - so I may as well swap the chains across at the same time.

Would I need to adjust the FD heights going from a 50 outer to a 52 and vice-versa?  I'm very wary about anything BB related as its one of the few areas on a bike I've not ever performed any maintenance on.

 

Just how much hassle would this be?

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8 comments

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ClubSmed | 7 years ago
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I swapped the chain rings on my 105 (5800) set-up with minimal hassle a few months ago. I went from a 53/39 to 50/36 and if memory serves me all it took was some Torx keys and a soft mallet for the chain rings. You will have to also adjust your FD and your chain.

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pablo | 7 years ago
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Swapping cranksets is easy five minute job after the first go. You will have to change the front derailleur height. Download the dealer manual from shimano gives u a step by step guide on making the adjustments. Swapping rings is just as easy but takes a bit longer.

I normally swap rings but this year I've been going up a hill regularly which is a barstard. The good thing about 50/32 is with an ultegra shortcage you can run a 105 11/32 if your going to the mountains you can't do it with 52/36 safely I've tried the chain line is interesting with shirt stays.

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CXR94Di2 | 7 years ago
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Just swap cranksets over  dead easy., take left arm off, slide out, refit in opposite procedure.

 

To adjust the di2 front derailleur is a doddle, just slacken bolt and adjust height so is 1mm above outer ring.  On the mechanical, leave it in position and try the shifting,  you will probably find it works prfectly and dont need to adjust the height.  If you do move it, you will need to re tension the cable.  

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SteveAustin replied to CXR94Di2 | 7 years ago
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CXR94Di2 wrote:

Just swap cranksets over  dead easy., take left arm off, slide out, refit in opposite procedure.

 

To adjust the di2 front derailleur is a doddle, just slacken bolt and adjust height so is 1mm above outer ring.  On the mechanical, leave it in position and try the shifting,  you will probably find it works prfectly and dont need to adjust the height.  If you do move it, you will need to re tension the cable.  

 

that ^^

i would try it without adjusting the front mech. The front mech adjusts the line of the chain, so its likely it wont need adjusting/moving

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madcarew | 7 years ago
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The answer is it's not much hassle. I'm not hugely familiar with the lastest crank sets, but in the past you haven't had to dismantle the BB to get the chain rings off, just thread them off over the crank arm and pedal. To go from the 52-50 CR you will need to drop your FD height, easy to do though, assuming your FD is in the cirrect position now, measure the diameter of your 52 CR and the diameter of your 50 CR and drop the FD by half that measurement. You will almost certainly find the FD works ok in the 52 position, but you are slightly more prone to chain derailment.

Swapping the cranksets is much easier than it used to be. Simply undo the non-drive side, slide the crank & spindle out and replace with a light film of grease in the other bike. Make sure you tighten the crankset bolts to correct torque.

TBH chain length is more decided by the size of your sprockets than your chain ring. There's probably less than 1 link difference in half the circumference of a 52 cf a 50.

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allanj | 7 years ago
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"Is there a reason you can't run a 52/34?  I've never found large jumps between gears particularly problematic."

 

You might not find it problematic but I think front derailleurs do, that's the limiting factor.  Whether it works but the shifting is iffy, or just doesn't work I don't know.  I suspect the former

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sergius | 7 years ago
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Almost never*

TBH, I'm thinking about the top end more.  On a couple of hills near me I can be spinning at 110RPM+ to hit 40mph with the 50/11.

 

Quite frankly it's all edge cases, I can only think of two hills with long enough straights near me to actually spin out.  I think I'll leave it as-is at least of now.

Is there a reason you can't run a 52/34?  I've never found large jumps between gears particularly problematic.

 

 

* I've resorted to a 34/32 on a couple of really long rides after I've basically given up, certainly not something I use often.

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allanj | 7 years ago
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Sounds like too much hassle to me!

 

How often are you using the 34/32 on your current bike?  Would you notice the difference that a 36/32 would mean?

 

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