Clicking noise every 1 & 3/4 turn...What to do?

Pyro Tim wrote:

New Canyon? Not a surprise. Check and tighten everything. My mate just dropped nearly 5k on one and had no end of problems. Rotors only finger tight, front mech only finger tight. Keeps dropping the chain, resulting in it bending and needing replacing. Don't assume everything is good because it's new.

I know two people whose Canyon deliveries were late but all three of us are agreed about one thing - the bikes were immaculately built.  My own Endurace was easily the best prepared of the half-dozen bikes I've bought online, down to an almost fanatical level of detail.  I guess you need a little luck ....

mike the bike wrote:

Pyro Tim wrote:

New Canyon? Not a surprise. Check and tighten everything. My mate just dropped nearly 5k on one and had no end of problems. Rotors only finger tight, front mech only finger tight. Keeps dropping the chain, resulting in it bending and needing replacing. Don't assume everything is good because it's new.

 

I know two people whose Canyon deliveries were late but all three of us are agreed about one thing - the bikes were immaculately built.  My own Endurace was easily the best prepared of the half-dozen bikes I've bought online, down to an almost fanatical level of detail.  I guess you need a little luck ....

His was late too. It's been to bike shops half a dozen times in 6 weeks, and he's been injured for half of that. Unfortunately it's now past 30 days, so can't send it back. He's considering selling it already.

Huckfinn wrote:

Problem solved about the brake caliper, it being an easily available BR-8070...

Concerning the 27t sprocket: can anyone advise where to buy one? It would be for the Ultegra 11speed 11/34 cassette...

Thanks!

Not many places sell part cassettes but SJS Cycles do - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassette-spares-shimano/

I don't see it on their list but they can probably source it. Just need to know which series the cassette is (R8000?) - then look up the exploded view on si.shimano.com for that particular model, it will give you the Shimano part number.

If it is R8000 then this is the part number - it's the final cluster (27-30-34) of the cassette that's sold as a unit. Might end up being cheaper to buy a whole new cassette.

Y1WH98030  

Huckfinn wrote:

Thanks for that!

I'll check it this morning.

Please note that someone told me yesterday night that my derailleur is not straight/not parallel to the back wheel, but it's actually "inclined" so that the bottom part is slightly outwards compared to the top part....

That can happen with long cage derailleurs, mine does it too, its not a fault.  Only if you have knock against the derailleur would you then examine hanger and derailleur alignment.

You're concerned mostly with the upper cog  on the derailleur and chain alignment going around the cassette and cog.  Sometimes its a fraction of a mm to adjust to clear up annoying clicks etc.

Huckfinn wrote:

ok
actually tried now
the noise is definetly coming from the "crankset area"
I can feel it when turning the pedal (in reverse) and feel it on the bottom part of the frame too.
Tried barrel adjuster with no change and the chain is perfectly "snug together"
Every single link of it.

If the chain has a split link take off the chain from crankset. listen to the crankset turning slowly. If it clicks its most likely its the bottom bracket (is it press fit ?)

TheLonelyOne wrote:

Not knowing how your chain was put together, but... if it's using a conecting pin, rather than a quick list, I'm wondering if that pin on the chain isn't installed perfectly, and is protruding just enough to impinge on the adjacent cog on the cassette.

Here's a Park Tools video (https://youtu.be/VdUQKVMPF5I?t=449) which shows the importance of getting this pin just right.

If it's joined using a pin (rather than a quick-link) locate the connecting pin (it will look ever so slightly different to the rest of them) and check that it does not protrude excessively on the inside (the side facing the wheel). If it does, carefully move it outwards with a chain tool and see if that makes a difference.

I once fitted a connecting pin myself and made a bad job of it and the chain broke when I was climbing a rather steep hill.  So yeah, you probably want to check that's not the problem.

Huckfinn wrote:

ok

...how do I do that?

 

The derailleur adjustment?

There should be a barrel adjuster on the back of the derailleur.  Turn it a quarter turn at a time (clockwise looking from the back of the bike to reduce tension, anticlockwise to increase tension) and see if it stops the noise.  As long as you remember how many turns you've made you can always put it back to how it was if it doesn't help.

Leave the hi-low screws alone unless you know how to set the limits up.  Chances are in this instance they won't make any difference, and could end up putting your derailleur through the spokes which you really don't want to do.

Its worth watching a few videos on setting up and indexing the derailleurs, good skills to have and really not hard.