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6 comments
Thanks for the (recent) replies - I posted this a year ago but it's popped up again. As I explained, I was releasing the clutch mech, so that wasn't my problem.
In the end I found that, by putting the chain onto the 4th sprocket from the top, rather than the bottom (smallest), that the wheel slips out easier. Having the chain in the smallest cog meant it was very difficult to align the disc rotor and the rear mech at the same time.
I have the GRX 810 mech too. You need to switch the clutch off to make the mech easier to move, it is the grey switch where it says "on".
Once that's off you will find it a lot easier and more like a normal road mech
Check your mech is attached correctly. The mech holding bracket needs to be almost horizontal. You can see the correct angle in dealer manual 3 on the shimano site page for the mech too.
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cant-believe-im-asking-this-rem...
A bit late to the party sorry but my road Ultegra Di2 wouldnt let me take the back wheel out unless i deflated the tyre. By accident i found that by turning the B screw in one complete turn fixed it, in and out with the tyre inflated as sweet as you like now.
I'm having the exact same problem. The wheel on my road bike with Ultegra is easy to remove, but it's a pig with GRX. I feel like you REALLY have to pull hard on the derailleur to the point where I'm worried I'm pulling it out of alignment.
Forgive me if this is not the issue - but the GRX units have a "clutch" to make sure the chain stays tight on bumpy ground. This basically holds the cage in position and resists forces trying to move it around - like when you try to pull it back to free the wheel.
There is a switch near the main pivot of the unit which releases the damping - you can see it if you look in the user manual UM-3HR0B-000-ENG.pdf - I have tried to upload a picture but not sure if it will work.