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OPINION

Clean but not Squeaky

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Chain cleaning made quick and easy

Why bother cleaning your chain? Easy; even if you don’t buy the argument that it saves money – and, depending on how you cost the time put into extending the service life of a chain by, perhaps, 10 per cent, it may not – riding with a filthy chain is asking for a ‘fourth cat tattoo’ down the right calf. Perhaps more importantly, a correctly cleaned and lubed chain that is still within its wear limit runs almost as smoothly and efficiently as new. And it looks nice.

When cleaning a chain, the primary aim is to remove the abrasive grit that finds its way inside the bushings. This stuff has an astonishing capacity to find its way into the smallest spaces, as can be seen when removing a spoke nipple from a used wheel. The thread will be found to be caked in fine silt, which is a good thing in this case as it helps seize the nipple to the spoke. It’s not a good thing to have between the moving surfaces of a bike chain.

Complicating matters, the grit is kept in place inside the chain’s inner workings by the residue of whatever lube was used last time it was lubed. A ‘wet’ lube of the sort preferred by most road cyclists readily picks up and hold on to grit particles, with which it then combines to create an effective abrasive paste.

Most such lubes won’t mix with water and resist being washed out by it. The quick and easy way to address the problem is to dissolve the lube/grit paste using a water-soluble de-greaser and then use water to flush the resulting solution out of the chain’s links.

Before going any further, check for chain wear; if worn close to its limit, the chain may not be worth cleaning before it is due to be binned.

Apply the de-greaser – a good example is Morgan Blue Chain Cleaner - to the chain and work it in by using a brush to agitate the rollers. Go around the inside and outside to ensure complete penetration. At the same time, use the brush and degreaser to soften dirt on the cassette sprockets and rear mech jockey wheels.

Next, rinse the chain. If one is available, use a hand-pumped pressure washer to flush out the degreaser with clean water while rotating the crank.

An alternative is to load a sponge with car wash shampoo (diluted, obvs) and wrap it around the chain, squeezing while running the chain through it. Follow this with clean water. Use similar procedures to rinse dirt off the sprockets and jockey wheels.

Now apply a water-dispersing product such as WD40 to the chain; this will disperse the water now inside the chain bushings. Wipe the chain dry of dispersant and apply your favourite lubricant before heading off for a well-deserved – and highly efficient – ride.

How often should this be done? As often as ‘necessary’…

Richard spends most of his time making bikes, writing about bikes and riding bikes in the hills of west Wales, while imagining how much more of the above he’d be able to do if he only had more time…

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54 comments

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Airzound | 9 years ago
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Never clean a chain on the bike, always remove and degrease then rinse thoroughly, dry and re-lube with chainsaw oil. Clean all other components. Re-assemble. 1 hour every 3-4 months if you ride EVERY day 35-40 miles each day.

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surly_by_name | 9 years ago
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New chains always seem to be overgreased and the grease they are packed in seems specifically designed to get truly filthy quite quickly. I've found chain cleans up much more easily on subsequent cleans once you've first removed packing grease.

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MisterMuncher | 9 years ago
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Big mouth Lucozade bottle full of red diesel, odd socks for wiping down, and Fenwick's stealth. Silent Running.

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MKultra | 9 years ago
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Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.

Same goes for cassettes.

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fukawitribe replied to MKultra | 9 years ago
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MKultra wrote:

Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.

Same goes for cassettes.

People with a life probably... that or no chain whip..

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MKultra replied to fukawitribe | 9 years ago
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fukawitribe wrote:
MKultra wrote:

Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.

Same goes for cassettes.

People with a life probably... that or no chain whip..

So people repeatedly drop all this money on boutique cleaning products rather than a one time purchase of a chain whip and remover so you can just dump it all in a jam jar of degreaser/parafin/spirit all of which are cheap.

And you claim I am the one who needs to get a life?

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fukawitribe replied to MKultra | 9 years ago
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MKultra wrote:
fukawitribe wrote:
MKultra wrote:

Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.

Same goes for cassettes.

People with a life probably... that or no chain whip..

So people repeatedly drop all this money on boutique cleaning products rather than a one time purchase of a chain whip and remover so you can just dump it all in a jam jar of degreaser/parafin/spirit all of which are cheap.

And you claim I am the one who needs to get a life?

Well firstly the comment was meant half in jest - a difficult thing to remember to try and convey reliably, so it wasn't my intention to be nasty.

Secondly I can give my cassette a very good clean using degreaser and soapy water plus some random brushes etc lying around without having to remove the thing from the wheel - I said nothing about "boutique cleaning products". I would have to require an astonishingly high level of "deep" to need to take it off (which I do do * from time to time), which is what I was really questioning.

* apologies for saying 'do do'.

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lookmanohands | 9 years ago
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Erm is petrol not any good then!

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RobD | 9 years ago
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I was a bit unsure as to how much difference a really clean chain would make vs one that just had a superficial wash over.
On one bike I tried meticulously cleaning the chain every couple of rides, using a similar method to the one in the story (minus the WD40) and on the other I just wiped the chain over with a bit of the general bike cleaner solution with a separate sponge when I was giving the bike a wash.
Both chains seemed to work fine and shift as well as each other the next time the bike was used, but the one that just got the simple wash over did seem to get a little bit less slick on about the 3rd or 4th ride between cleanings but it wasn't anything very noticeable.

Can't really comment about longevity of the chains, I change them once they've stretched a bit far, it usually seems to be quicker than any actual wear.

Might not be the most scientific method but from my experience I've stuck with giving it a simple wash in detergent when the bike gets cleaned, and a more thorough degreasing if the chain picks up a lot of dirt that won't wash off straight away.

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CXR94Di2 | 9 years ago
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I use ultrasonic bath with gunk for chain and cassette. Parts come out like new. I now have a large container of chain wax which I melt in the oven, once chain has submerged wipe down reassemble. Good for a few hundred miles if not more  21

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antonio | 9 years ago
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I'm staggered no one has mentioned the superb qualities of diesel oil and the silky feel of the chain after cleaning with it.

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fustuarium replied to antonio | 9 years ago
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antonio wrote:

I'm staggered no one has mentioned the superb qualities of diesel oil and the silky feel of the chain after cleaning with it.

You shouldn't be. About 40 posts up someone mentioned using diesel oil  3

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balbardie | 9 years ago
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As an elderly but still keen cyclist I am intrigued by the variety of chain cleaning ideas - I'm with JeffR's Dad. Back in the 50s it was chain off, into an old pan of paraffin, brought to the boil on a primus stove (outside), stirred thoroughly, hung up to dry, and then back on the bike.

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JeffR | 9 years ago
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Back in th 60's my Dad taught me the bike maintainance skills he used in the 1930's, long before modern tools, cleaning materials and lubricants.
As 3cyclinders suggests, every week, after a weekend club ride, off would come the split link, the chain would then be immersed in a tin of paraffin. The lid taped up it was then immersed in boiling water for several minutes.
With a pair of gloves or an old towel it would then be shaken till your arms screamed in pain. Drained and hung to drip dry, it was then placed in a pan, covered with light oil and carefully warmed on the gas hob. Left to drain and re-fitted. Never had a problem with a chain which always ran sweetly.
Today's chains are much cheaper to replace, and the wife won't let me in the kitchen!

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KiwiMike replied to JeffR | 9 years ago
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JeffR wrote:

Back in th 60's my Dad taught me the bike maintainance skills he used in the 1930's, long before modern tools, cleaning materials and lubricants.
As 3cyclinders suggests, every week, after a weekend club ride, off would come the split link, the chain would then be immersed in a tin of paraffin. The lid taped up it was then immersed in boiling water for several minutes.
With a pair of gloves or an old towel it would then be shaken till your arms screamed in pain. Drained and hung to drip dry, it was then placed in a pan, covered with light oil and carefully warmed on the gas hob. Left to drain and re-fitted. Never had a problem with a chain which always ran sweetly.
Today's chains are much cheaper to replace, and the wife won't let me in the kitchen!

Nostalgia ain't what it used to be.

In this case, an enormous faff.

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earth replied to JeffR | 9 years ago
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JeffR wrote:

Back in th 60's my Dad taught me the bike maintainance skills he used in the 1930's, long before modern tools, cleaning materials and lubricants.
As 3cyclinders suggests, every week, after a weekend club ride, off would come the split link, the chain would then be immersed in a tin of paraffin. The lid taped up it was then immersed in boiling water for several minutes.
With a pair of gloves or an old towel it would then be shaken till your arms screamed in pain. Drained and hung to drip dry, it was then placed in a pan, covered with light oil and carefully warmed on the gas hob. Left to drain and re-fitted. Never had a problem with a chain which always ran sweetly.
Today's chains are much cheaper to replace, and the wife won't let me in the kitchen!

I am rediscovering this technique. On my commuter the chain was so dirty I had to give it a deep clean first but on the posh bike the chain is always waxed and it stays very clean so I could probably get away without deep cleaning it before immersing in wax.

I like the idea of putting it in a tin and shaking. I have been heating the wax in a sauce pad on on an electric ring then swirling the chain around in the pan.

But now I'm thinking of mixing this old technique with new technology. Some of those ultrasonic baths have heating elements as well. What if paraffin wax was used in the bath instead of water/solvent that is normally used? That could clean an lubricate the chain in one go!  26  26

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gmac101 | 9 years ago
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I thought this was the only proper way to clean your chain?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

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oliverjames replied to gmac101 | 9 years ago
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Absolutely right, plus it leaves no time to go out and get the chain dirty again. A win win solution what!

For those wishing to get out and ride this guide is a better alternative:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

I've been cleaning my mtb chains using SB's tips for a long time and chain life has increased noticeably. In addition I always have a shiny clean chain (at the start of the ride) that passes the hand grip test.

I suspect that one of the factors most affecting chain life is too much lubricant.

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Colin Peyresourde | 9 years ago
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I used to use the chain cleaning tools you can buy. In the case of the Park Tools one I thought the magnet was a good idea. But each of the tools has broken in one way or another. The brush method was a revelation and actually quicker and cleaner.

GCN have a video which gives a great breakdown of the process.

I have always been curious as to the exact properties of wet, dry and ceramic lubes available. I use a 'wet ceramic' lube, but only understand that a 'wet' lube is for wet weather, not why it is better.

I also worry about whether I have too much or too little lube on the chain. As I understand it the chain should feel lubed/sticky to the touch, but otherwise appear 'dry'.

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KiwiMike | 9 years ago
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Folks, let's not be hating on what people find works (apart from mixing a degreaser with a lube - that's just daft  3 )

Time spent (and I mean only a few minutes) up close & personal with your drivetrain every few weeks is essential to spot stuff starting to go wrong, that could go wrong with nasty consequences.

e.g. some people don't check their tyres after every ride. Takes 20 seconds for both, max - and could save you a flat, blowout or major crash.

It's a broad church.

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crikey | 9 years ago
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Quote:

I follow a strict regime for cleaning my...oh give over...

You are a trainspotter and I claim my free GNWRS badge. You know how many kms before you degrease the chain and keep a record of the km lifespan of the chains. Weak lemon drinks all round!

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stephen connor replied to crikey | 9 years ago
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crikey wrote:
Quote:

I follow a strict regime for cleaning my...oh give over...

You are a trainspotter and I claim my free GNWRS badge. You know how many kms before you degrease the chain and keep a record of the km lifespan of the chains. Weak lemon drinks all round!

@crikey I'm just sitting on the platform waiting for the Dublin - Belfast enterprise to pass. Strava and other web apps keep records of your bike components life span. I'm really enjoying this refreshing lemon flavoured beverage by the way.

How do you like them apples!!  103

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stephen connor | 9 years ago
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I follow a strict regime for cleaning my drivetrain. During the winter when the road a mucky and thus the chain, I degrease the chain and drivetrain after every second outing or if its very foul weather each spin. In the summer it gets degreased every 150-200km.
Procedure is pretty simple but methodical:
1. Apply diesel (sparingly) to chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings. Use a small paint brush or like.
2. Leave for 5-10mins while filling bucket with hot water and your chosen bike wash/detergent.
3. Pre-Rinse bike. Wash/Soap complete bike and rinse. With remaining soapy water (or neat dish washing liquid if you like) wash chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings using an old dish washing brush. Rinse drivetrain thoroughly.
4. Back pedal cranks while gripping chain (beneath chainstay) with rag / garage strength paper towel to remove remaining dirt and old lube.
5. Dry chain with rag or air line (if available). Chain should look factory clean after this. Re-lube sparingly with chosen lube (my favourite is Rock Oil Motorcycle Chain Lube). Allow to dry and wipe off excess.

This method has resulted in chain lifespan of ~8000km for Campag chains and -6500km for Shimano/Sram. I tend to use Campag chains all the time even though I have shimano grouppo.

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The Handmade Cyclist | 9 years ago
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I have tried just about everything.

Then, a while back I read an interview with the Bissell team mechanic in the US, who recommended this routine... and it bloody well works.

Use Prolink Progold lube - it also acts as a degreaser. Used in a chain bath / chain cleaning device it gets your chain cleaner than you would believe.

So -

Step 1 - quick spray of Morgan Blue degreaser on derailleurs, cogs, chainset.

Step 2 - wash bike

Step 3 - clean chain in chain bath thingummy filled with Progold. Chain will gleam like precious thing. Wipe off excess then backpedal like billyo to get rid of the rest.

Step 4 - pour progold back into bottle, use to lube pivot points on bike.

Put bike in shed, leave to dry. The Progold then dries like a dry lube and is the best I have ever used at not picking up dust and crud, so chain stays clean and shiny for longer.

And because the chain is super clean, you don't have that thing where it looks clean but it actually makes your cassette and chainrings grimy as soon as you the bike again (which can happen when just using the brush method above).

Whole process prob takes less time that it took me to write this...

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crikey | 9 years ago
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My pleasure.
It's just another bit of trainspotterish nonsense that cyclists indulge in rather than actually riding their bikes.

(...and embarrassingly enough I used to do it, and used to buy 6 chains, then change them after every 2 months riding, then spend time cleaning them in between. I was commuting and racing the same mountain bike.
Did it make a difference?
Only in a negative way, and only to my sex life...)

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RuiFig replied to crikey | 9 years ago
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I have the following routine:

1. Take it for servicing
2. Ride it for 1 year.
3. Take it for servicing, and pay an extra 10£ for a good cleaning.

Although this last time, when I was picking it up:
Me: "Damn, it looks as new".
Shop owner: "Go figure. Under all the dirt, it was white after all!"
 24

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crikey | 9 years ago
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 21

None of the above jiggery-pokery has ever been shown to do anything except allow you to spend time in your shed away from the wife.
Time spent fannying about with chain cleaning is like time spent fannying about cleaning the soles of your shoes.

I use dry lube, I wash the bike as little as possible, it works.

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KiwiMike replied to crikey | 9 years ago
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crikey wrote:

 21

None of the above jiggery-pokery has ever been shown to do anything except allow you to spend time in your shed away from the wife.
Time spent fannying about with chain cleaning is like time spent fannying about cleaning the soles of your shoes.

I use dry lube, I wash the bike as little as possible, it works.

A lot of bike mechanics and component salespeople thank you for that advice  1

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notfastenough replied to crikey | 9 years ago
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crikey wrote:

 21

None of the above jiggery-pokery has ever been shown to do anything except allow you to spend time in your shed away from the wife.
Time spent fannying about with chain cleaning is like time spent fannying about cleaning the soles of your shoes.

I use dry lube, I wash the bike as little as possible, it works.

This. It's difficult enough to get sufficient time away from my other duties to spend 6-9 hours on the bike - yes, actually riding it - every week. OCD cleaning: Er, no.

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Simon E | 9 years ago
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If degreasing is fine why do SRAM and KMC (who also make Shimano chains) tell you not to do it?
http://www.kmcchain.eu/maintenance

"Observe how much gunk comes out of the chain that appeared to be clean"

Plus the grease that you can't replace by slapping it on the outside.

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