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13 comments
I think one of the good things to the disc brake evolution is tubeless tires will be the first choice for roadies.The only thing stopping me using them now is glue melts on long descents,and the tubeler has been known to role off.Disc brakes will stop the heat build up at the rim also offsetting some of the weight penalty.
In the process of going road for my summer wheels - stans rims, dt hubs and hutchinson tyres. Two layers of rim tape - tyre went on with finger pressure only (no need for levers) and with tyre rims seated in central wheel groove they inflated first time with floor pump.No need for washing liquid! There is a good vid. on the Stans website and all works fine if you follow it.Not put the sealant in yet though and wont be riding them until end of winter.
I have run mtb tubeless for years and they have worked fine - all punctures have sealed.
OK, so having heard a couple of negative stories at the bike club tonight and having digested all the above replies, I think I'm going to go regular tubes and tyres for the mo', but keep an eye on tubeless and maybe switch later in the year.
Many thanks for all your responses.
They seem well established and liked for MTBs, but a friend of mine at work spent a fair whack on Shimano tubeless wheels and Hutchinson tyres for his road bike.
He had a terrible experience with the system, hard to mount, difficult to seal, you were recommended to carry inflation cans. Ironically when we did the Hell of the North 2 last year he was the only one to suffer a puncture too.
It just seems like a lot of hassle (and cash) for a marginal theoretical improvement. If you want a plusher ride fit clinchers 25s instead of 23s and run them at a lower psi. Most riders won't notice that much of a performance drop, but will notice an improvement in ride comfort.
the lack of tyre choice is stopping me (well that and tubeless specific rims). seeems to be Hutchinson, Hutchinson or Hutc....
Thanks for all the replies folks.
@dave_atkinson "you're no more in difficulty than you would be with a standard clincher set up, assuming you're carrying a spare inner tube". I guess my concern in this situation is a) not being able to get one bead of the tyre off the rim since they're supposed to be (and need to be) much tighter than regular clinchers, and b) not being able to reinflate with a standard pump. S'pose I could go the CO2 route in that situation.
I really am 50/50 on this at the minute.
Sorry, just re-read my last post and realised the nonsense I am talking. Point a) is valid I think, but point b) is not. Please ignore.
they're a closer *fit* because they're a different *shape*
the bead should be the same circumference, the ones i've tried have been no problem to get on and off
I have thought about it but not done it. I have on a mtb and not had a puncture in well over 6,000 miles, of which 5,000+ have been this year.
I do like the simplicity of a tube on the road and everybody can help you out if you forget something unlike tubular. As Dave says you can just use a tube in case of punctures with a tubeless setup.
You've done 5,000 miles in 10 days... impressive!![10](https://cdn.road.cc/sites/all/modules/contrib/smiley/packs/smilies/10.gif)
Yes, but some people count time on the turbo as double![4](https://cdn.road.cc/sites/all/modules/contrib/smiley/packs/smilies/4.gif)
once you've set them up they're not much trouble. i rode tubeless for a while and managed to put a big gash in the tyre that wouldn't seal, but you're no more in difficulty than you would be with a standard clincher set up, assuming you're carrying a spare inner tube.
i'm waiting for the tubeless road tyres to go the way of tubeless mtb ones, ie, lighter carcass relying more on the sealant to hold the air rather than a heavy butyl layer
Surely practical and tubeless don't go in the same sentence! Go clincher if worried about practicality.