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Frozen Brakes? Croix De Fer
On my ride to work this morning the disc brakes(rear) on my Croix De Fer stuck, i.e. wouldn't compress, and when finally they did I needed to pull the cable to separate them. I have just checked them now... a few hours later and now maybe 6C warmer and they are working. Did they freeze this morning, it was just under minus 2? Is there anything to do to stop this?
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For what it's worth, my callipers froze open last week. That was an 'interesting' first stop...
'Anyway, point stands'
No, it doesn't. Not in the slightest.
I'd further argue that 'Stuff like this is why...' is totally wide of the mark too. That's much less provable, of course. The slight possibility of frozen brakes if you don't keep them clean quite possibly doesn't come into the equation. It's almost certainly more to do with being able to charge more for hydraulics, which then has a knock-on effect of some people having to buy more tools, or go to their bike shop for maintenance rather than doing it themselves.
Are you really, honestly suggesting that the near ubiquity of hydraulic disc brakes on mountain bikes is a result of manufacturers looking to charge more for something? Rather than the fact that they simply work better (without too much rounding, about a million times better) than what went before? I imagine you know who really shot Kennedy?
You really can't buy a bike made for proper mountain biking without hydros. You can buy a bike that you can ride off road with varying degrees of enjoyment/safety with cable actuated discs.
Hydros are cheap - yes you can get a pair of v brakes cheaper but you can buy any old crap for next to nothing if you want (and it's cycling - if you want to spend a fortune on V brakes or cantis, it's pretty easy to do so). Provided you don't have internal cable routing, hydros are also easy to set up, simpler than v brakes and far easier than cantis. And they are low maintenance. People worry about bleeding them but it's a rare occurrence, certainly when compared with the need to change brake cables (inners and outers) on a bike ridden off road in the winter.
Changing subjects for a minute - I don't imagine Surly did anything that they would ever describe as "research". Other than potentially on beer.
Keep them clean and maintained and it won't be an issue thats all.
Riding in the winter means a bike needs some more tlc.
please define 'quality pricepoint' and 'serious'?
I don't know, £600 plus for a hardtail?
Serious = not a BSO. Same as above.
Anyway, point stands, even the new Deore hydraulics are really good and cheap as chips (can be had for less than £40 ea, OEM would be much less).
Yes, but I suspect that the likes of Surly have done some research on the matter. They'd be much better off listening to internet nonsense and going hydraulic.
Don't some of the more adventure-related fatbike manufacturers (e.g. Surly) spec cable discs on the basis that they are in fact less likely to suffer from low temperature-related problems?
Looking at the cable discs they offer as standard it certainly doesn't look like cost cutting either as BB7s will cost at least as much as decent mid-level hydros if you are buying OEM. I'd back their judgement/experience.
You're right, they're split between SRAM Guide and Avid BB7. I'm thinking the latter is due to finding replacement parts easily as cables are a bit easier to source and fix than torn hoses!
Stuff like this is why you don't find cable discs on mountainbikes... with hydraulics it's a non-issue.
The tip about packing the final loop with waterproof grease sounds like a good one, if a bit maintenance heavy. Can you do full-length outers for winter?
You do, of course, find cable discs on mountain bikes. Mine have been fine down to -20.
As you were.
Any sold in the last 5 years or so at a quality pricepoint?
Sure, yes, some will exist, but they're not exactly specced on anything serious anymore, are they?
The manly solution is to place the bike on its side then urinate on the frozen bit. Or use caliper brakes.
you are taking the piss
you are taking the piss
have chatted to someone I know and they had the same thing happen. I do have to wonder why so many bikes are running discs the way they are when water will get in and will freeze. Best solution is to go full hydraulic but I accept it isn't cheap.
IrishCliff,
Are u based in Ireland, I had exactly the same problem the same day, the first time this has occured to me in 3 full years of commuting incl snow days.
The reason I ask was the temp in Northern Ireland or on my commute was -5 with an extreme freezing fog which I believe caused my brakes to freeze & stop working (increased moisture in air which froze due to temp & wind caused by forward motion) - its really hard to brake with your foot in overshoes
-
May have just been due to that but the other answers will help me out too
Thanks Mike, for now I'll keep the bike indoors tonight to hopefully have it's starting temperature a bit higher
I have had the same problem with gear changes when MTBing and its VERY cold and cable freezes up!
In common with many disc-braked bikes the CdeF has a rear brake cable that bends in a downward arc near the calliper. Water collects inside the outer cable here and, if it's cold enough, it will turn to ice. Bingo, no rear brake.
I do two things every winter to improve things. First, I strip out the inner cable and liberally coat it with light oil in the hope this will keep it running freely. Then, after reassembling the cable, I put a dob of waterproof grease on the cable, where the inner disappears into the outer. This seems pretty good at keeping the water out but may need replenishing weekly. (It is possible to buy a so-called waterproof ferrule for this part of the cable but I have found them to be useless.)
I ride almost every winter day, often at below-freezing temperatures, and I haven't had any trouble for some years. Best of luck.