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14 comments
Scrufftie, sent you a long and rambling email!
Davey
Great email, thanks. Have replied
Hello WellCoordinated...so I've only limited knowledge of Italian (from holidays and and business colleagues...but I could only smile when you suggested "testa di cazzo"
I have cycled quite a bit in Italy, and like others have found Italian drivers much more considerate that UK ones.
Remember to be submissive if, in the unlikely event you get into an altercation with an Italian motorist. Remember you are a guest in their country, and it is probably you that have made a mistake. In the past I have found the phrase "testa di cazzo" very useful in calming the situation.
Hello All,
Thanks very much for the hints & tips. I think I've added a trip to Ghisallo onto the "must do list".
TBH I'd never really thought about the roads being poor - so I'll stick the winter tyres on and maybe head to the Swiss side more often.
I've been gazing at maps & as we stay in Lanzo D'Intelvi (alt. 1000m) between the lakes of Como & Lugano - the routes I've planned all seem to consist of long down hill, lots of flat around lakes etc followed by big uphill to get home.
FullGas - as a local, have you ridden up from Lugano (Bissone) to Val D'Intelvi. I've driven it many times, but can't comprehend if it's possible to bike up it. In the car the last mile is 1st gear only + hairpins bends
That ride is about 95km with 2500+ meters of climbing. I don't think I would take a 11 year old boy on one of those meat grinder rides. I certainly would wait two or three years to do it when he has grown some muscles in his legs. If you really feel he can take it, try something milder to test his legs/will like the Brunate climb.
I have found Italian drivers to give cyclists exactly the same respect as they would to any other road user. Admittedly this isn't that much, but it's more than the average British driver gives to a cyclist, and it's a pleasure to be treated as an equal. It helps to ride in an Italian style, i.e. give as good as you get, and you shouldn't have any problems.
Take some good lights for the tunnels, though.
I'd second the point about road surface quality, which can make it pretty hard at times to ride where you are expected/supposed to. As well as cracked and damaged surfaces, there was an amazing amount of litter on of a lot of roads we rode on, though that may be where we were (nearer Rome, so a lot busier). I don't think we once saw anyone littering, it just looked like the roads have been a bit neglected for a while - people who live there may know more, I assumed it was due to the squeeze on public finances. As others have said, tunnels are best avoided if at all possible - poor surfaces and litter weren't restricted to outside these. I had one particularly scary one which appeared without me expecting it, on a very sunny day - without time to flip down the sunglasses it was the proverbial "hang on and hope" until the eyes adjusted!
Drivers are no worse or better than in the UK in my experience. The main thing is Italians have to, by law, talk all the time and so drivers are either having a wild debate in their car with passengers or have a phone clamped to their ear having said debate. Seeing as the other rule appears to be "get past the car/bike in front at all times" it definitely pays to have your wits about you..
As above, the drivers seemed to be typically Italian and yet still happy to give you room etc. Tunnels are everywhere round Como, but I didn't have any trouble, but did just try and get through them as quick as I could (all of them are far nicer than the last time I was forced to ride through the Blackwall Tunnel!).
Again, the climb to, and the chapel itself, is amazing, and if you get a chance do the Muro de Sormano climb, it's funny just how ridiculous a climb it is.
I live and ride in Como. Compared to riding in the UK here is a breeze. However be prepared to very few close passes perpetrated by twats driving with smart phones on their hands.
Regarding the cycling laws there are a few things to keep in mind. You can't ride two abreast unless there are four or more cyclists in the group. Hi-vis garments are required only half an hour before sunrise/sunset, and at night. Bike lights are required (back red, front white), but I usually use only one on my seat post. You have to ride in the gutter, not always possible (see below why).
The thing that most bothers me here is the quality of the roads, lately it's been terrible, specially gutters. You have two solutions. Use hand signals to let drivers know of your intentions, most of them will give you space. Avoid riding in Italy and go to Switzerland. Good and sturdy tires like Schwalbe Duranos are essential.
As for tunnels, it's going to be rather difficult to avoid it. Roads around the lake are somewhat narrow and almost always two-way. Also, be prepared to do a lot of climbing as flat rides around here usually involve at least 500 meters of climbing.
Here we greet fellow cyclists with a simple ciao, or ciaooo.
Let me know if you need anything else and enjoy your cycling holiday!
+1 for Madonna del Ghisallo, and continue on up through Sormano to the observatory for stunning views and a great descent back to the lake.
Tunnels there are a tricky one. Fortunately, there's almost always a path around them if you really want to avoid them. Some of them don't allow cyclists, and motorists will let you know quite quickly if you haven't noticed the signs. But the majority it's a case of trying to stay visible, be deliberate and get through them quickly.
Also, flick your sunglasses down your nose as you enter the tunnel to actually be able to see the road in front of you too!
Have a great trip!
As Davey says, Italian motorists are generally more sympathetic to bikes than in the UK. Except old ladies in Pandas, who are just useless.
Como is lovely...make sure you ride up to the Madonna del Ghisallo from Bellagio, the iconic climb of the Giro di Lombardia. The church full of cycling memorabilia is fantastic, as is the cycling museum next door. Definite must-visit.
With regard tunnels...try an avoid them. If you can't, put your son 30 yards in front of you, make sure you both have decent lights, I wear a reflective band round one ankle rather than the full hi-viz thing, and get through them as quick as you can.
Done a lot of cycling in Abruzzo but mainly on quieter country roads. Generally Italian drivers are better than in the UK with cyclists, more likely to give you space and overtake when it is safe. You will still get the odd feckwit who will not see you or pass too close though so still be as aware as you would be here.
There are more groups out cycling where we are in Italy but it might be because it is either along the coast or heading inland 35k to the mountain. "Salve" is a common greeting with other cyclists.
Davey, I have been spending summer in Abruzzo for more than 12 years now but I'm taking my bike for the first time this year. I'd be interested in any route recommendations. We are down in the south of the region, near Vasto, but I'm hoping to get up into the Maiella for a spell