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13 comments
Thanks all for your comments - thanks esp GKam for sending me the very handy step by step guide, worked a treat & the 38s are all set up and ready to go for sunday's race.
Will mention that 105 screws are much fiddlier than Ultegra, glad I've finally upgraded!
Why is everyone giving tips about wrapping bars...that wasn't what she needed advice on...anyone she's made a marvellous job or changing the bars and wrapping them from the picture I just saw
Since we were told that wrapping bar tape wasn't the issue, we've had.. 1 post giving instructions on how to wrap bar tape.
Calm down eh. Have you been thinking about Rapha too much again?
In my first few attempts at wrapping bar tape, I didn't do the first revolution of the wrap right enough which makes it difficult later on to plug the end cap in. Soy advice would be to make sure the first wrap is quite tight so the natural stretch in the tape pulls the bit of overlapping tape inwards.... If that makes any sense. There's a good video on youtube by the GCN boys where they have some Italian mechanic showing you how it's done. The rest is fairly straight forward so long as take your time. Oh year one more thing, snip the end of the tape with a scissors diagonally when you get to the end. This will help tape it to the bar.
Park Tools have the best tutorials online I find.
You'll be better marking the shifter positions rather than a picture, it'll take an age to get back other wise and if the hood shape is different it won't look 'right'.
That's perfect thanks Nick. The 40's are stock bonty racelites, the drops quite different to the Dedas, which seem more "girly" - if that makes any sense at all! A little friendlier on my wrists at the very least.
I was thinking of maybe even just dabbing a tiny spot of tip ex for locational purposes maybe, but a pic sounds more logical/tidier... the 38s are a spot shallower and a little shorter from the bit from the flat to the drop.
Gkams sent us a wee pictoral tutorial too, basically easy enough then it seems.
I'd gone and got Google syndrome earlier where I found a load of horror story posts about having to recable the whole thing etc etc etc....
Eventually I'll be taking this for a retul so if I do make a pigs ear at least some solace awaits ;P
Thanks again
Unwrap the 49 bar tape, then peel the shifter rubber back to access the clamp screw. Undo this just enough to slide the shifter down the bar and off. You won't need to release your cables for any of this. Unbolt the stem plate and swap bars, then do everything in reverse to finish off.
What 40 bars are on there at the moment? Because as I said up there earlier, Deda measure centre of the tube to centre so their 38 bars are exactly the same width as, say, a Ritchey 40. If the shape of the drop is the same then you might not even need to do any of this.
If you do swap, the housings should be more or less the same length so I wouldn't worry about that if you don't want to get into undoing cables, but just make sure you know how you like your bars set up. Maybe take a picture of them side on so you can replicate the bar rotation and shifter position more easily.
Also I think I should maybe clarify the order in which I'm swapping things about
Currently, my winter bike is the Kuota, which 105 and has my Deda 38's on.
I am stripping those from the Kuota, to put on my Madone, which is Ultegra and has 40's on.
The 38's will be "naked" as the tape needs doing anyway...bigtime. Winter ming.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for all your comments here guys, sorry I should've worded my post a little better, just a few things to clear up;
1. Wrappings not an issue, I'm very experienced in the field of wrapping, and have unbelievable OCD haha, so I do all 10 bikes out of mine and the BF's on a regular basis, but thanks.
2. I need 38's, after having three retul fits for different bikes in the last 6 months, that's not really up for argument. I've been riding 38's forever so it's not like I'm changing to something new, the reason I'm getting rid of the 40's because it's my first big race of the season next week and I don't want to be riding with something that's so out of the ordinary. Also, like it's been mentioned by NickT there, the smaller the better, aerodynamics are important to me
The bars, the bikes and everything in between are all measured up - I'd just like to know if I need to be concerned about cabling etc or if it's just going to be a straight off/on job.
@NickT that's helpful re housing thanks
I'm not really afraid of doing anything on the bike, I do my own servicing & modifications all the time, but due to there being a bit of a lack of pointers on the "bits you need to bear in mind" in tutorials online and on youtube I thought it best to put it to the board...
Reason I'm not dragging the other half in to help me is I'm finishing work at 4 and will want these changed before training tonight, due to it being a recovery ride before tomorrows "big session" - ideally this is the time to do it so that I don't leave it too late to get rid of any niggles.
So essentially, sti's should just pop off easily without cabling becoming an issue, allowing me to throw the new set on, is this the case?
The best wrap job I ever did was my first one, I didn't waste any rolls either so don't expect to need a half dozen backups after you balls it up because you won't. I really took my time on that attempt so it was meticulous, now I just wrap them without caring too much and end up with a tiny gap under the hoods but only I know it's there.
Deda measure centre to centre so a 38 is the same as another brands 40 measured outside to outside.
I ride a 40 Ritchey so the same size, and I'm a 6 foot tall dude. Smaller the better. Adam Hansen uses some custom 36s IIRC.
Watch a few videos to see if you feel up to it, it's not all that hard to do in honesty. Or might need to trim the cable housings a bit if the bar shapes are different enough to warrant it. Just make sure the STIs are bolted on at the right position for you before wrapping the bars.
Rather than asking on a forum, surely you can ask a friend to help you? Its one of those things that isn't that hard but just takes a little time.
Check out youtube on how to change a stem, how to wrap bar tape. how to attach shifters to handlebars and you should get how to do it all. With new bar tape, have a practice wrapping without taking the backing of the sticky strip to get a feel so you dont have to go through a few packs of tape. You shouldnt need to recable.
And 38cm is very small. Im a mid height size 8 lady and ride 40-42cm on road bikes.
Sticking with the 40cm bars fitted will not do you any harm to be honest. Bar tape has a nack to it and it's not something I would recommend for a beginner, it's not that it can't be learned I just wouldn't want you going through several sets of tape before you get it right. Unless you really are tiny I don't think 38's offer much other than a rather hunched up position that is uncomfortable, it's hard to go too wide with bars but it's easy to go too narrow and injure yourself. Leave the tape in place and remove the cables from the outers and you will most likely be able to simply unbolt the shifters from the band on while leaving the band on in place and put the Ultergra ones on instead.