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11sp ultegra di2

by tonyhogg
Sat, Apr 05, 2014 22:09
14

Absolutely horrific drivetrain noise, slipping, scraping, clicking, its horrendous! Small ring at the front big two cogs at the back sound so bad, suppose its the angle of the chain leaving the small pulleys? Also middle of the cassette either small ring or big ring produces the same awful scrapey sound. Had it to 2 different bike shops (if you class evans as a bike shop) and their answer is just gunk it up with wet lube and grease.

It's a bmc slr02 with ultegra di2, I think this 11sp compared to 10sp has got to be setup absolutely perfect and mines not, so sad 2

I'm contemplating going back to 10sp it's that bad.

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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14 comments

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notfastenough | 10 years ago
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Weren't you having similar issues with Dura-Ace 9000 not long ago? Sounds like you need a better LBS.

LOL at shelling out an extra £140 for the diagnostic software- I totally get your point, but it just seems bizarre to be buying such stuff to maintain a bike!

Also, Allez neg re turning it off and on again - now that is funny!

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tonyhogg | 10 years ago
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Not quite as magic feeling as the SLR01 just lacking something but very close, It's a superb bike, changed the wheels to dura ace c24 and it flies, never get tired of stomping on the pedals it just leaps forward, a good all rounder I'd say not just a race bike. Don't like the looks of it or BMC bikes and decals in general but you soon forget that.

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mutchie1991 | 10 years ago
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Not what your looking for, but how you finding the bike apart from the gear problems, as I'm considering the SLR02?

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tonyhogg | 10 years ago
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Thanks, some interesting suggestions there, I've had some truly terrible mechanics fondle my bike recently, it does just need setup from scratch by someone competent really no big deal.

It's got me thinking is a semi compact 52/36 supposed to sound different in the granny gear, and middle of the cassette? I normally use a compact 10sp and its silent in comparison. Basically I HATE having my time wasted/stolen and not enjoying my new purchase to the fullest, I blame mountain bikes.

Does anyone have 52/36 semi compact and can use their granny gears, small ring, big cogs on cassette with this new 11sp, it's not like I'm cross chaining, I can see looking at the line of the chain it's wrong, so much extra noise, scraping, clicking, horrific!

Bunging some wet lube on and plenty of grease makes no difference.

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Jtyler24 | 10 years ago
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2 thoughts:

Firstly, my father had a very similar sounding issue as you, but with mechanical ultegra, and it turned out to be due to the rear mech hanger being very slightly bent.

Secondly, are you using an 11sp chain? I know the chain widths are the same (near enough) for the Shimano 11sp and 10sp systems but the 11sp chain is a slightly different design to deal with the increase in cross chain angles. I can imagine if the chain couldn't bend freely at the extremes that it might lead to the things your getting! I appreciate though that this doesn't seem to explain the middle of the cassette noises! =s

Good luck with it though!

Also just to stick it to the anti di2 mod, I've got it on my best bike and its amazing! consistently faultless shift and, once its set up correctly, it just stays that way!!

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dave atkinson | 10 years ago
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sounds to me like the limit screws in the front mech aren't set correctly, so the cage isn't moving far enough in and it's catching on the chain and causing the chain to dismount on the big cogs at the rear.

if it *is* that it's a 2-minute job with a 2mm allen key

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kev-s | 10 years ago
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first things first you dont need the di2 diagnostic software kit to fix your problem, all it does is allow you to do firmware updates, custom shifting options and to check if there is a fault with any of the di2 components

check your chain is still within its wear tolerance and make sure the cassette and chain are nice and clean with no damage etc...

using the di2 pdf manual completely re-set the gears up from scratch, including setting up the front and rear mech limits

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja...

ive got di2 on two bikes and have had another 2 bikes with di2 and ive found it to be faultless once set up correctly (first 2 bikes were built by a shop and the di2 system wasn't set up correctly!)

personally if you have invested in di2 like me then its well worth buying the diagnostic kit as at £140 its cheaper in the long run than taking your bike to a shop for any firmware updates, custom shifting or fault diagnostics and being charged £40-£50 per time

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LondonByCycle | 10 years ago
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Are you actually saying that you need to hook a di2 equipped bike up to a computer to set the gears up? Think I will stick to mechanical Ultegra. Good luck with getting it sorted.

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allez neg | 10 years ago
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Welcome to the brave new world. Who needs screwdrivers when you can have laptops and firmware updates?

Have you tried switching it off and then on again?

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morethansonglyrics | 10 years ago
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Take it to a proper bike shop.

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tonyhogg | 10 years ago
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Tried it this morning and the granny gear won't even stay selected now, half a pedal turn and it slips back off onto the next sprocket...bad times, new bike is very poorly 2

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Coxy75 replied to tonyhogg | 10 years ago
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I have found this on the web which might help

http://www.roadbikeaction.com/ARCHIVE-TECH--FEATURES/content/67/2509/Ins...

or

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/di2-shimano-electronic-intellig...

As setting up as if from new might be the answer. if not then the di2 diagnostic kit would be the only way forward i can think of.

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Coxy75 | 10 years ago
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The chances are it just needs adjusting, rear mech first then front. Hopefully not trying to teach you to suck eggs, make sure the chain, cassette and front chain rings are not worn and everything is clean and lightly oiled.

If that does not work evans have a diagnostics kit that should be able to sort it, it will take a couple of days to get to your local store. also bizarre as it sounds the firmware in the mechs needs to be updated about every three months.

Hope this helps

Evans bike mechanic.

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Coxy75 replied to Coxy75 | 10 years ago
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Coxy75 wrote:

The chances are it just needs adjusting, rear mech first then front. Hopefully not trying to teach you to suck eggs, make sure the chain, cassette and front chain rings are not worn and everything is clean and lightly oiled.

If that does not work evans have a diagnostics kit that should be able to sort it, it will take a couple of days to get to your local store. also bizarre as it sounds the firmware in the mechs needs to be updated about every three months.

Hope this helps

Evans bike mechanic.

Also check your b screw tension, this solved a similarly problem I have encountered.

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