- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Cross country mountain bikes
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
11 comments
If you haven't already try some plusgas on it as I freed a friends seatpost with it that hadn't been moved in over a decade, it works wonders with seized bolts on cars as well.
I had a similar issue with a stuck bike post, tried all the usual methods to remove it but it was seized solid so had to resort to grinding it out bit by bit.
Luckily I was off work at the time recuperating from a crash and the Vuelta was on, took a few hours, the heat generated was immense, had to stop every few minutes to let it cool down. Once the post was thin enough I could grab one end with some pliers and roll it off http://road.cc/sites/default/files/bikeseat.jpg
bikeseat.jpg
Sounds like you haven't tried swearing at it.
Just a few words of warning if you do have to go down the cutting it out route (from bitter, personal experience).
(and replacing quite a few blades) I realised that no matter how straight I was trying to keep the blade I was starting to cut into the frame. At that stage my mood was so low I had mentally written off the bike and was desperately trying to work out how I was going to be able to afford a new one. Do not underestimate what cutting into your pride and joy will mean to you! Luckily one of the fellas in my club is a mechanic in another bike shop and he told me to bring in what now looked like a frame with a peeled aluminium banana stuck in it. Due to my efforts it took them much longer than if I had brought it straight to their shop without cutting but luckily enough I told them I didn't want to know what they did to try and free it. I got a surprising call a couple of days later to hear that they had freed it-I didn't want to ask how they managed it (and to be honest I don't think they wanted to tell me!). Needless to say when I am going to buy my next bike I will be more likely to go to them than the original shop.
Make really, really sure you have the time and fortitude to see it through to the end otherwise just take it straight to your LBS before you start cutting. My normal LBS didn't want to touch mine with a barge pole so I had to start the job myself. After 3 days of soul- and mind-numbing sawing
Basically I am just suggesting that, while you may want to do the build yourself, if it comes to the scenario where nothing else works and you are going to have to cut it out, seriously think about an LBS before making the first of very, very, very many cuts.
-
Nah. The interaction between grease and carbon is an old cycling wives tale. It's galvanic corrosion between the alloy sleeve and the carbon post.
Cut it out.
http://www.corrosionpedia.com/2/1556/corrosion/galvanic-corrosion-of-met...
It's probably not Aluminium Oxide causing the problem, it'll be the grease you used on the post causing the post and possibly the frame to expand as it's absorbed. So an ammonium etch of the surface layer of AlOx on the sleeve may not work how it can for an Al post in a steel, Ti or Al frame.
The chemist in me says that you need something to etch away the Al sleeve that wont damage the resin on the carbon fibre or anything else it comes in contact with. Sodium hydroxide (lye/caustic soda dissolved in water), methoxide (dissolved in methanol), or ethoxide (dissolved in ethanol) may do the trick but check it wont damage the frame first.
The engineer in me says, heat twist and pull, that worked for me last time I got a CF post stuck in an Al frame. I made the mistake of swapping saddles with another bike by swapping the seatpost.
Get a long hacksaw blade and cut it out.
You can spend days messing about with various witchcraft style lotions and potions, and heating and cooling and praying and other arcane mystic stuff, but the simple, straightforward works-every-time answer is to cut it out.
You could try some ACF50 which is pretty effective on aluminium oxide which is what has formed to 'stick' your post. Final resort is hacksaw blade.
Heating/cooling doesn't work on carbon.
http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
Scroll down to the one for carbon, had a mate use that method to great success.
Worst case you'll have to chop it out, don't bother heating and cooling on carbon, especially with heat.
Kill it with FIARRR!
This is going to be a bit drawn out, wrap the seat post in some rags, pull the bottom bracket completely out, leave the seat intact. Support the bike upside down, run a garden hose through the bottom bracket hole, just down far enought to be near the seat post. Hook the hose up to a co2 fire extinguisher, pour a lot of really hot water over the rags and get them soaked, allow 2-3 minutes for all the parts to heat up. put a foot on the seat Assy, then activate the co2 fire extinguisher into the seat post. Start sharply pulling up and pushing down on the frame, whilst holding the seat with your foot, you are going for quick thermal shock to try to separate the parts so you only have at most, 1 minute to try this. I have seen this work on a frozen aluminium seat post, and I would state that this technique is not without a bit of risk on CF.
So you have a carbon post seized in an alloy sleeve that is seized in a carbon frame?
If so, I hope someone else has an idea.
Ammonia is the usual job if it's aluminium oxidisation that's the problem, but hard to tell if it is. Might be a job for a hacksaw blade.